Another interesting day filled-to-the-brim with unusual sights to look forward to. Early breakfast followed by a 5-minute ferry ride across the Curonian lagoon over to 98 km/66 mile long Neringa Spit. Neringa Spit was formed over 3000 years ago when the natural forces of sea and wind took a series of small islands and eventually connected them into a narrow, sandy peninsula. The Baltic Sea on one side, Neringa and the Curonian lagoon on the other. Neringa Spit was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List as one of the world’s most scenic spots. The south part of Neringa belongs to the Kaliningrad Sambian Peninsula (Russia) and you need a Visa to visit this section.

We would spend the day on Neringa Spit exploring the area around Juodkrante and Nida, beginning in Juodkrante, the second biggest village on the spit. Both villages lie within the Curonian Spit National Park, home to some of the highest drifting sand dunes in Europe. Juodkrante was a high-class European resort before World War II and the village runs along the lagoon for about 2 km/1.2 miles with a beautiful esplanade to walk or cycle on. As a matter of fact, the entire spit is easy cycling from one end to another. The thickly wooded hillsides are inhabited by moose, wild boar and many bird species (migrating cranes in Autumn). Didn’t see any moose. Did see a forest area that was disturbed by wild boar and a few hunters.

Neringa Spit map, Lithuania 

Sea Goddess Neringa on Witches’ Hill
The bus dropped us off at a trailhead that leads through century old pines and black alder on what is called, Witches’ Hill. Bear in mind that Lithuania was pagan until the end of 14th century and the last European nation to accept organized religion. In earlier times, there was no forest here. Just drifting sand dunes and this was the preferred spot to celebrate Rasos, Festival of The Dew, known to us as Midsummer Day/Night (summer solstice) on June 24. Until World War I, Lithuanians would gather here to sing and dance on the longest day of the year.

We began walking up through this gorgeous forest to see wooden sculptures of demons…View image, goddesses, gods…View image, and local folks. Craftsmen from all over Lithuania began to carve these personalities from century-old legends and stories to revive Witches Hill in 1979. From the first 25 sculptures, there are now over 80 sculptures carved from oak and craftsmen come yearly to add more on the hill.

The path began with the good guys and girls…View image. Sea Goddess Neringa who created Neringa Spit to shield fishermen from the Baltic Sea, the 12 brothers with sister Elenute, the happy fisherman…View image, and a faithful wife.

The Fisherman’s wife – she who waits, Witches Hill, Lithuania
The hill topped out at 242m before the nice downhill with a dragon who wanted to marry Neringa…View image, and had a few of my favorite sculptures along with their stories. This is the area where devilry awaited. The gates of hell. The devil and witch playing cards by candlelight….View image and the dancers…View image. There’s only one way to tell if you are dancing with the devil in disguise…step on his shoe and if it’s empty…you are dancing with the devil.

a devil hiding behind a tree on Witches’ Hill, Lithuania
The “Raining Frogs” story – …One young witch was given the task of making rain. She wasn’t one of the zealous pupils and although she toiled and sweated, she simply couldn’t remember the magic words. Instead of rain, the sky poured frogs and she had to take an exam all over again…

raining frogs on Witches’ Hill, Lithuania
…and The Witches’ Snare. …sometimes witches help people…all a man needs to do to fulfill his innermost wishes, is to touch with his hand the most protruding part of her… The most protruding part happened to be the breast!

Sheila and Steve at the Witches’ Snare, Lithuania
Finished with the so much fun Witches’ Hill, there was a little time to walk around Juodkrante, known for its dry fish called Zuvis being sold from small stalls along the route. It did not smell wonderful…