A big breakfast, schlep with suitcases to the train station and a 12-minute train ride to Turckheim. Our hotel for the first two nights was supposed to be Hotel Les Vosges**. Greeted at the Hotel and told that our accommodations had been moved to the Hotel des Deux Clefs*** two blocks away from Hotel Les Vosges but all meals would still be a the Hotel Les Vosges. Don’t know why they moved us but we’re not complaining. The Hotel des Deux Clefs (The Two Keys) is an ancient hotel, first mentioned in 1583 but the building itself dates from 1540 and is considered a Maison Historique (historical house). The former name was “The Black Eagle.”

Turckheim (pop: 3,594) is best known for its surrounding medieval wall, the only one in Alsace. The wall has three doors: The Munster Door; The Door of the Brand (the Route des Vins starts here); and the Door of France. The Munster Door (or gate) was called the “gate of sighs.” People sentenced to death passed this gate to be executed and 26 witches were burned between 1572 and 1626. Ah…the good old days…

Munster Door/Gate, Turckheim, France
The Brand Door (Oil Gate), the moat filled with fish in former times, was finished in 1377. The door was also closed on Sundays during Medieval times, and now the moat was filled with gardens.

Brand Door/Gate in Turckheim, France
The Turckheim Tourist Information Office is in the Guardhouse, given to the local Guilds in 1575. The fountain in front, “Stockbrunna” has been here since 1727 and is the departure point each night for the Night Crier (or Night Watchman) at 10:00 pm. “Ten o clock…and all’s well…” Turckheim has the only Night Watchman left. This traditionally dressed native, makes the rounds each night from May to October. Tourists can follow him and join in the songs. The Night Watchman is cloaked in black, carries a halberd and lamp. A very quaint touch but we were too jet-lagged to join in at 10:00 pm.

waiting for the Tourist Information Office to open in Turckheim, Alsace, France
The Vosges foothills surround the village with many old castles and fortifications. Turckheim is another designated “Ville Fleurie” (a flowerful city) in France, with many early Renaissance buildings remaining. Half-timbered houses, pastel wall colorings and flowers. Most of the houses were leaning in one direction or another, quite a few from the 1500′s…

Turckheim leaning house, Alsace 

a Turckheim house from 1553, Alsace, France
The History Trail walk through Turckheim takes less than one hour and helps tourists discover the architectural heritage of this town. You could also take a one-hour walk on the Wine Trail through the vineyards (the Route de Viticulture), lined with panels providing information on the local wines. The vivid town square, The Place Turenne, was surrounded by ancient houses with a topiary of the night watchman in the graden next to it…

Place Turenne, Turckheim, France 

Turckheim’s Night Watchman depicted in topiary, France
ex-Marine kept repeating …” You are missing the boat. Do your homework and come see these towns. Stay in one place and bike, train or bus. At our other hotel in Colmar, we saw bikers going in a different direction every day with maps..”

bicyclists heading out to explore another town in Alsace, France
Turckheim is also known for Gewurztraminer (wine), and traditional Alsatian cuisine. (Their vineyards primarily produce white wines.)

Turckheim map, France