Walking Through The Marais District on the Right Bank of Paris


Still walking east on the Rue de Rivoli, we passed many department stores, one of the few merry go rounds still operating in Paris until the Rue de Rivoli changed its name to Rue St. Antoine, only a few blocks from Bastille and now in the Marais District. A left down the Rue des Tournelles heading towards Chez Janou Bistrot on 2 Rue Roger Verlomme in this 3rd Arrondissement. Chez Janou was one of my restaurant recommendations and we were looking forward to a late lunch/early dinner.

Still on the right track, there was a Jewish wedding and Synagogue de la Rue des Tournelles, built in 1876, directly in front of us…View image. I knew the Marais District is still a major center of the Paris Jewish community, but being fixated on food, hadn’t given it much thought. Jewish people have been living in Paris since the 1st century B.C. Between expulsions, the Jews always returned and settled in different areas. Ile de la Cite, Rue de la Harpe (close to where we were staying now), and it wasn’t until the 19th century that the Marais area once again became one of the favored areas for Jews to settle in. Now the Marais is one of Paris’ trendiest quarters as we found out for ourselves the next day. Right now, let’s find Chez Janou and eat!

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a Jewish wedding on the Rue des Tournelles, Paris

Chez Janou was completely packed and had finished serving lunch. The last order went in at 3:30 p.m. Completely pissed and annoyed because my information said it was open all day. Right. It may be open but definitely wasn’t serving food. However, we did make lunch reservations for tomorrow and will try again
Famished and desperate, we began walking into other restaurants that were also done with lunch and it was too early for dinner. It was possible to order a Croque Monsieur (a fancy name for a grilled ham and cheese sandwich) for 9 Euros but that is ridiculous. Might as well spend the 15 Euros and have a meal.

Turned the corner from Rue des Tournelles back onto Rue Saint-Antoine and found Cafe Le Moderne was serving. Let’s hear a brief “Hallelujah Chorus”…please… Cafe Le Moderne was a skip and a hop from the famous Lenotre Patisserie that had incredibly yummy cakes in the window, and we seriously toyed with just buying lots of cakes and tarts and eating that for dinner. Who cares about three squares…properly nourishing meals…or calories. We’re in Paris!
Cafe Le Moderne had an extremely nice waiter who graciously and with good humor mopped up the table and us after ex-Marine spilled some red wine, good service and even if the steak was on the tough side, the Bearnaise sauce made up for it. So much for carrying restaurant recommendations to Paris. It appeared that this trip was going to be like all others. Walk into a restaurant and order…

Paris at night is beyond spectacular and it took forever to walk back to the hotel only because I must have stopped every 10 seconds to take poor nighttime photos, gawk at the beauty of this city…View image, the bateaux mouches passing under the bridge…View image, ooh and ahh. Visiting Paris off-season when the sun sets by 5:30 p.m. definitely has the advantage of Paris being lit early in the evening instead of 10:00 p.m. as in the summer time.

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Paris at night with the Eiffel Tower in the distance
 


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