The hotels used during our Orissa visit were described as “basic” by Trade Winds Tours but we didn’t think they were “basic” at all. We’ve seen basic (is that a good thing…or a bad thing) and these hotels could almost be considered “luxurious” compared to some we’ve stayed at (again, is that a good thing…or a bad thing). The Hotel Hello Jeypore had excellent food and we enjoyed eating there until one dinner included not one, not two, but three hairs in my food! Eewww…that temporarily turned me off eating.

Early breakfast for a full day. First, we had to get to Onukudelli on India’s notorious roads and second, this was another market that you want to visit early while the Bonda tribe is coming down the mountains carrying their goods. …View image… …View image… The Thursday Bonda Market is considered by Bibhu to be the most interesting of all the market visits and we were excited. …View image…

I can’t chew gum and walk at the same time let alone carry sacks on my head without holding on! India 

Sheila with two little, but mighty Bonda women in Orissa, India
The intense Thursday market is held on the hilly main street of tiny Onukudelli…View image…. The Bonda are named after the Bonda hills of Orissa and known for their stubborn, independent and often ferocious nature. Bibhu had to stop, drop off passport and visa information at Machkung Police Station because this is restricted territory and you are not allowed to visit any individual Bonda villages. Some adventurous travelers visit without permission but are definitely taking a chance. Tourists were far and few today because the Mumbai bombing frightened many people away.

We arrived in Onukudelli with time to spare and Deepak drove the car through town and out to the “main” (dirt) road that the Bonda would come down. The Bonda will usually walk 10-15 km/6-9 miles from their village and then have to walk back again on the same day. The women and children appeared first…View image, and your heart goes out to the extremely thin women who may still be young but look extremely old from a subsistence life of poverty and hard work. …View image. If you want to photograph the women individually or up close, the Bonda charge 10 Rupees for photos but there’s never a problem taking pictures from a distance. …View image…View image…

Bonda women carrying leaves for plates on heads, India 

colorful bead coverings on the Bonda women
TIP: Take small bills to the markets because the people can’t make change. This was one instance where I was more than happy to pay for photographs to supplement their meager income. At least, not one person begged and they were selling handicrafts made by them. …View image. Bracelets woven out of grass for 20 Rupees each, beaded necklaces and Ringa, a woven cloth covering traditionally worn by the Bonda. Ten grass bracelets and one necklace later, at least we felt we had contributed a little.

Bonda woman selling her woven grass bracelets, Orissa, India 

Sheila buying bead necklaces from the Bonda women, Orissa, India
Mesmerized, there was still much more to come…

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