Another long, gradual trek back into the high country where families of herders greeted us. Meadows filled with wildflowers and spectacular ridge top views. After lunch, we crossed the 11,375′ Upanym pass and began the descent through a series of watersheds with a stream crossing.
The day ended by another creek where Kyrgyz herder families make their home. There was supposed to be two more hiking days but Rob was greeted by some disquieting news. Four Japanese geologists along with nine Kyrgyz soldiers had been kidnapped in these mountains a few days ago by what was thought to be Tajikistan militants and these Kyrgyz herders were going to head down to safety. A consultation between Rob, herders and camping crew and a decision made not to continue with the trek but go down tomorrow to where the buses should be waiting.


The traditional end to the trek would be tonight and the Kyrgyz trek staff instantly set up shop. They bring along carpeted saddle bags, patchwork fabrics and traditional felt hats along with other items handmade by their families to sell at the end. Everything laid out on the grass, we went into a shopping frenzy. Not that anyone needed a carpeted saddle bag but happy to subsidize this great crew who worked their butts off, making and breaking camp, cooking, cleaning, loading and unloading horses and trying to help in every way they could. There would be a tip kitty with a suggested amount from Rob for contributions, but this was extra gravy for them.

Difficult to decide what to buy but we did our best and a few saddle bags and more felt hats later, the trek was basically over. Tomorrow was one last downhill to the rendezvous point with our bus near the village of Uzgurush.

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March 11th, 2009
Sheila Simkin
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