We never did get to say a proper farewell to the trek participants. Most were flying out a few hours after the arrival back to Tashkent and we were moving on to an Independent package visiting Shakhrisabz, Bukhara, Khiva, and Ashgabad in Turkmenistan.
The Kyrgyzstan hostages weren’t ransomed for another two months after our exit and the countries settled back down. Kyrgyzstan is still far off the beaten path but I am thrilled that at least Wilderness Travel has scheduled an exploratory trip here and hope that Mountain Travel Sobek will add this Turkestan Range back into their offerings. A newspaper clipping from August 25 read, “…. at least 10 gunmen died in a battle to free seven hostages, including four Japanese geologists, in the Central Asian state of Kyrgyzstan yesterday. The fate of the hostages is unclear. The gunmen are suspected to be Islamic militants from neighbouring Tajikistan….”
Mountain Travel Sobek is offered Exploring Russia’s Lake Baikal – The “Blue Pearl of Siberia” another year led by the fabulous Rob Smurr. If you hanker for something new and different, you’d have to go far and wide to find a better tour organizer and tour leader.
“Turkestan” is the historic name given to the region of Central Asia that includes the former Soviet Central Asian republics of Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan as well as Xinjiang Province in Western China. The Turkestan range consists of the Pamirs, the second biggest mountain range in the world. The borders of Tajikistan, Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan meet in chunks throughout this area which is why I don’t have a clue as to where the various border crossings on that last endless day were.
This range has mountains that have never been climbed…the best rock faces outside Patagonia…and the most spectacular hiking scenery we’ve ever seen. The people are friendly. Fruits and vegetables outstanding…and the scenery…


…beyond belief. Photos can’t possibly do it justice. You’d be hard-pressed to find a bad campsite and I dare you not to gasp at your first sight of the Aksu or Karasu Valleys. Tien Shan Travel based in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan was the tour operator for this trek and is still in business. Give them a try if you can’t find what you are looking for on other sites. They did a fabulous job.
An excellent book for any and all trekking inspiration is Frith Maier’s, Trekking in Russia & Central Asia. If you are serious, invest in this book. Rob suggested it and this book gave invaluable information.
Do yourself two big favors. First, get yourself into the best physical shape possible. Don’t select a high-altitude trek like this because it “sounds like fun” or you “need closure” and end up riding the horse for two weeks. These two women were extremely lucky that they had that option. And, two, visit the ‘Stans. Whether or not you want to trek, venture into the ‘Stans for amazing adventures…and do buy one of those white Kyrgyz felt hats…
Far more far east – Discover the real Asia on an Intrepid adventure



March 14th, 2009
Sheila Simkin
Posted in
Tags: 


