Fes is celebrating it’s 12th century of existence in 2010 and there are over 12,000 narrow streets in Fes. Keep that in mind as we plunged into one of the most amazing, interesting and colorful Medinas/Souks I’ve ever seen. But before entering, Rachid and Aziz repeated the important instructions:

- Keep all money and wallets safe inside, preferably in a money belt, and NOT in pockets or you’ll live to regret it. The streets (or passageways) are extremely congested and pickpockets have a field day;

- While walking through these congested narrow streets that resemble small passages in sections, men carrying goods on their backs and heavily loaded donkeys have the right of way…View image. If you hear balek or andek behind you, get out of the way. Loose translation means, “coming through”…”move it” and/or “careful”…View image At one point, a small tractor came through that took up the entire passage and everyone had to jump into whatever alcove or space was available to avoid being run over;

- Keep together, don’t lag behind; and

- Watch what you photograph – especially women. If you ask permission to take a close-up, you are expected to pay for the privilege. Don’t even think of trying to photograph women. Even when I took photos from a distance, there would be occasional shouts of allez (go) or no. Show respect if that’s the case and move on…

I don’t think anything I write can prepare you for a visit to the Medina of Fes e-Bali (old Fes). This is one place that must be seen and experienced to really comprehend. The narrow alleys, covered bazaars, shops, restaurants, dye pits and tanneries. Cries of belek as donkeys and mules squished by us. Men wearing boots and wringing out freshly dyed red and black cloth…View image… into the passages, carrying heaps of leather skins on backs and heads. My head looked like a scene from the Exorcist, swiveling from side to side and trying to take it all in.

I would have killed for a private guide and day just in the Medina alone because my style (along with others in the group) was severely crimped. We had to stay together and not lag behind. Almost impossible to do since I’d come to a dead stop every few feet to look at another exotic sight whether it was a display of lamps or a dentiste sign surrounded by clothes…