The Dayak welcoming ceremony continued. We moved from the floor to ceremonial seats in a place of honor while they draped head scarf on ex-Marine, and one across my shoulder. Two village elders sat on the floor in front of us with the ceremonial dish. He picked up ugly chicken and touched the chickens head with the piece of iron and then with his finger touched parts of our bodies. Head, arm, leg and a few other places. I was getting a little nervous what was going to happen when he picked up the chicken. Was he going to sacrifice it? Were we going to have to drink blood? Take a bite of the chicken’s head? What in hell was he going to do with that chicken? Sigh of relief when chicken part of ceremony was over and none of the above took place.

He then sprinkled grains of rice in our hair and on us (my exploding hair shed rice grains for days), and tied on the string bracelets for long life. They’re supposed to stay on for three days. Next, two very heavy buffalo horns with home brewed rice wine inside were handed to us to drink from. We both just pretended to drink and I’m glad I did.

Fery being welcomed after us at Dayak Hornbill party, Borneo
Don’t know if you read the June 2, 2009 article about 25 people, including one American, who died over in Bali and Lombok after being poisoned by homemade rice liquor laced with methanol. Nothing like a little acute alcohol poisoning.

After our welcome, the rice wine began flowing into everyone’s cups while the elders repeated the same ceremony for cook and Fery…View image.

Then, Hornbill dancing. The Hornbill dance is very stylized with slow, graceful movements…View image. Two men would dance at the same time, finish, drink a little rice wine and other dancers would take their place. Perhaps, two men and two women doing the same movements but as a couple. Finish and more dancers. Rice wine constantly offered and if you don’t want any, just touch the jug with your finger and that signals, “No thanks.” Thick clouds of smoke permeated the longhouse from the chain smoking men, sweat poured off one and all, one woman…View image… came up to me and tied a scarf on my body. How could I know that meant I had to join in the next hornbill dance until Fery told me the meaning? There was no way to refuse because it would have been a terrible insult. Good sport, me, danced with a wonderful looking man, over 85 years old, and I must say, we made a lovely Hornbill couple.

dancing the Hornbill in Bakonsu, Borneo
Desweating back on the floor and grateful that at least in Indonesia, you don’t have to worry about your feet pointing at anyone and can just stick legs out unlike Thailand where’s that is a big no-no. The Dayaks and Indonesians believe in just enjoying today, don’t worry about tomorrow. Very Zen and I only wish I could train my mind to do that.

Sheila doing the Hornbill dance in Borneo
The party was over early, around 9:00 p.m. The Tamon Dayaks were very warm, hospitable people, and it was the first time that an actual ceremony was performed just for us. There were additional options for tomorrow, but we’ll see. I have a feeling that my discomfort level has peaked…

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