Back outside where our Becak peddlers were waiting and over to Taman Sari…View image…visible from the Becaks with tourists standing on top of the ruins. Taman Sari, or Water Castle, is a ruined complex built as a pleasure garden by the first Sultan in 1765 by a Portuguese architect, of all things. There is a story that the Sultan had him executed to keep this a secret. You don’t need a guide to find Taman Sari, just look for tourists standing high on ruins.

The complex was almost completely destroyed by bombs from Diponegoro’s Java War, earthquakes and eruptions from Mount Merapi, one of Indonesia’s most active volcanoes and only a short 60 kms/37 miles from Yogyakarta.. Gus led us up Taman Sari’s ruins (no admission charges) where we stood looking towards the actual swimming pools before heading down in the direction of underground tunnels that connect the water castle to the main bathing pools used by the Sultan’s harem. (The first Sultan also had a tower overlooking the area so he could choose which lucky lady would join him for a little frolic.)

series of tunnels used to connect Taman Sari in Yogyakarta, Java 

Sultan’s frolic area in the distance at Taman Sari, Yogkarta, Java
Walking towards the main pool, we heard music coming from one of the tunnels. Student musicians play down there because of the acoustics…View image. Still on the way to the main pool, it began to pour. Not a light rain but torrential downpour! FYI: Even though this visit to Indonesia was in the “dry season,” it can rain at any time but doesn’t last long. Just wait it out.

We ran down steps into an ruined underground mosque, built between 1750-1755 for use by the Sultan and his family. All that remains are stairs, an alcove for the Imam to face Mecca with a few decorations remaining…View image, and big pool for bathing before entering for prayers. A crystal dome once covered the mosque and it must have been magnificent.

Sultan’s underground mosque, Yogyakarta, Java