Stevenson purchased Modestine in Le Monastier sur Gazeille, and donkeys are still welcomed (and stabled) in six out of the seven lodging places here and along the trail. There is a commemoration stele that shows the official beginning of his route. Le Monastier is the official starting point and RLS began on a Sunday which today was. It is really necessary that you attempt to speak a little French and/or carry a phrase book unless you travel with a group. The hotel owner at Hotel Le Provence spoke very little English. There was no choice of entrees at dinner last night but everything was delicious. A baby shrimp salad for starters, duck leg, green lentils, and the yummiest zucchini-pasta casserole. A platter of cheese choices for dessert and we were two very happy hikers.

Breakfast was a little on the skimpy side by my hungry standards. Bread, juice, coffee and croissants…not nearly enough with another 23km/14.3 miles to go. Out on the trails by 9:00 am on what would turn out to be “same-o, same-o” every day…hot and sunny. Sunny is good if you want to sunbathe, the hot? Not…when you are walking/hiking.

bright red poppies on the trail in Le Monasttier sur Gazeille, France

Chemin Robert Louis Stevenson sign on the trail in France
Over the Loire River where children were fishing (adults not allowed). Into the woods on a stony path with ups and downs until we reached a plateau and from there into the hamlet of Courmarces. A “hamlet” consists of a few houses and we were through most hamlets in the blink of an eye. I love flowers and the wildflowers along the route kept my interest high and off the foot pains. In the pastures, high grass, on this very well-marked trail. There were even huge stones placed in the center of the path along the way. One with “yes” and later on, one with “oui” written in bright, red paint. We’ve gotten a little smarter today and make an effort to stop hourly to drink water and rest.

a bright red “oui” sign indicating this was the correct path on the RLS trail through France
Stevenson got lost around Goudet because the Lac du Bouchet is uphill of the hamlet within a flooded volcano cone. No worries for us. The trail led past the quiet Lac, through Saint Martin de Fugeres, by a war memorial, Montagnac, Ussel and at long last, Le Bouchet Saint Nicolas. The Ferme Auberge L’Arrestou was thankfully on the outskirts of Le Bouchet Saint Nicholas and as we approached, there was a big Birthday bash going on there. Grandparents, children, sisters, brothers, aunts, uncles galore. They had just finished a late lunch and polished off crates of wine bottles and champagne. These sweet French locals immediately engaged us two, very sweaty, stinky people into their conversations and one little boy even gave me the three French kisses on the cheeks when he was leaving. (Air kisses on one cheek, then the other cheek, finishing up on the original cheek.)

at the Ferme Auberge L’Arrestou in France 

Dinner was served family-style with two Swiss, us and six French just beginning their RLS journey for only five days. Dinner was roast beef (very tough), overcooked asparagus and a gigantic casserole of the most delicious creamed potatoes. Followed by the plateau de fromage to choose from, ice cream and free bottles of wine, it was easy to forgive the tough roast beef.