The Chandra river starts at Moon Lake (Chandra Tal) in the Himalayas and runs through the entire Spiti Valley (there are treks there, also), changing it’s name to the Indus as it flows through Ladakh and Pakistan. The rapidly flowing river creates this awful “road” when it overflows every year. Snow melting off the mountains and glaciers fills the river to the brim and washes the entire road away. The roads in both Spiti and Kinnear must be completely rebuilt every single year.

The “road” was basically just roughly crushed rocks of all sizes, steam-rollered down, or if not steam-rollered, flattened by traffic. …View image… Since there isn’t much tourism in Spiti, car traffic was light. Very rarely, there was an interesting sight…a shepherd, dressed in traditional Spiti outfit carrying a baby lamb (the babies are carried for the first month after birth)…a flock of Pashmina goats…decorated trucks…

herdsmen carrying a new lamb in the Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India
There was then five hours of excruciating, bone and back-breaking driving with stops for occasional tea and pee breaks. The tea breaks took place alongside the road in crude shelters where Jagdish #1 and 2 always stopped for a fast stir-fry or hot tea. …View image…

Jagdish #1 – Guide in the Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India 

Jagdish #2 – Driver in the Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India 

Then, up and over the Kunzum La Pass at 15,000′ with its stupas and prayer flags at the top. …View image…The people in this valley are Buddhists and there are some extremely old, impressive monasteries untouched, unlike the ones in Tibet destroyed by the Chinese.

Kunzum La Pass, in the Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India 

mountains and glacier view from Kunzum La Pass, Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India
Down through the valley, a little greener on this side but still high in altitude. The first village we came to was Losar where you must register your passports with the Police then on to Kaza at 12,800′. The Spiti River flows through the valley and the villagers grow barley, wheat and some vegetables. Each village we passed had perhaps nine or 10 houses surrounded by their fields. a rare spot of green among all the desolate scenery.

In the distance on a hill was Ki Gompa (monastery) surrounded by high altitude desert. Ki has been restored many times in its 200-year history due to various invasions and earthquakes that caused the destruction.

Ki Gompa (Monastery), Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India
A prayer of thankfulness…Banjara Camp and Retreat, Kaza was in sight! Cokes, french fries, a bed, hot water, electricity and we almost felt human again….View image…

Banjara Camp and Retreat, Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India
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