It was late when we arrived in Rezekne and checked into the Kolonna Hotel, a former Russian hotel that has been completely redone within walking distance of whatever sights there were to see. A statue of “someone.” A church of St. “whoever.” The old castle of Rozita. Those were Rezekne’s three sights. It was already past 5:30 p.m. and the thought of one more church, statue or castle just wasn’t appealing. Especially since castles were on tomorrow’s agenda. Instead, a fast unpack in preparation for leaving early tomorrow morning. A nice big room, unlike the teeny-tiny one in Vilnius, with lots of light for reading. Of course. There’s always light to read by when you don’t have enough time to even open a book.

Rezekne is now the center of the Latgale region of eastern Latvia, settled by Livonian tribes. I’ve made references to “Livonia” throughout the series of Baltic articles and thought you may want to know what it refers to. The Livonians were the original Baltic tribe who settled around the Gulf of Riga as early as 3000 B.C. and spoke Finno-Ugric. They controlled the Daugava River, an important trade route. The remaining short version of Livonian history is: they were pagans, didn’t want to be converted, German Knights of the Sword tried, Teutonic Order took over, Livonia became part of Poland, divided in two in the Polish-Swedish Rule, yadda, yadda, yadda. Upshot? There are now only 200 Livonians left but they played a big part throughout Estonia and Latvia history.

Rezekne town map, Latvia
Let’s eat dinner! Signe recommended Mols, Makslas Salons-Bars Restaurant down the street from the Hotel Kolonna for traditional Lithuanian food and that’s where we headed. The owner spoke limited English, and because of that we ordered two glasses of very bad wine that we drank anyway…we were desparate. Dinner, however, was delicious. A vegetable salad to begin with. Tomatos, cole slaw and radishes followed by what the menu called a “double pork chop” that appeared to be two pieces of pounded pork (pork schnitzels) with a layer of cheese inside accompanied with boiled potatoes, carrot salad, cole slaw and more tomatoes. Very, very good in a cutely decorated restaurant with a gift shop in back selling pottery and everything Latvian.

Makslas Salons-Bars Restaurant (Mols) in Rezekne, Latvia
Signe was bringing the group (who had pre-ordered) here for dinner and must have called to tell the owner because we saw him run out the back door to the grocery store and return, arms loaded with grocery bags. He made a second trip soon after, and, we could hear the cook busily pounding pork into thin slices. A group tour certainly helps their economy.

BestRates at Best Western – even when it is last minute