It was hoped that today would not only be the last public bus ride but also the last very early morning. Wake up at 4:45 a.m., breakfast by 5:15 a.m. to leave in time for the 6:45 a.m. bus to Riga, Latvia. The public bus originated in St. Petersburg and had a few Russians zonked out on the seats…definitely understandable. Another boring 4-hour ride that most of us slept through with flat scenery and small houses being the only sights. A private bus was waiting at the Riga bus station right across the street from the huge hangars of the Central Markets and transferred us to the Hotel Irina, a 3*** with elevator, opposite the central railway station. The building was built in the 19th century and recently restored. Suitcases in room and a short walk to Freedom Square with Signe to orient ourselves before the 2:00 p.m. walking tour.

Signe lives in Riga and would act as the Explore tour guide during the two days here. One third of Latvia’s population lives in Riga and most of the important sites are concentrated in a small area. Riga is an old Hanseatic city on the banks of the Daugava River and considered one of the most beautiful in the Baltics, but at first sight, the city didn’t seem that appealing. The Hotel Irina was close to the railroad station and you know what areas like that usually look like. Sex shops, beggers and drunks loitering around…albeit, with a McDonald’s directly across the street.

Blackheads’ House, Riga, Latvia
However, Riga really grew on us and ended up being a major highlight with spires and towers that made the streets fun to walk through. We left the group and walked down to the Tourist Information Office in the Blackheads’ House. (I still think my Dermatologist should change the name of his practice to the “Blackheads’ Group.”) The Blackheads were a fraternity of tradesmen and guild members, whose patron saint was St. Mauritius. Only tradesmen who were not married could join this guild and the garish house was rebuilt in 1999…View image.

The wonderful Tourist Information Office loaded us down with maps, walking tour and cultural information. A Riga native heard us inquiring about the one and only Synagogue’s location and insisted on walking us there. We had no intention of visiting at the moment and just wanted to know the location. She walked us for blocks while I tried to nicely tell her it wasn’t necessary and we’d find it later on. Absolutely to no avail and talk about determination! Unfortunately, it is always easy to recognize a Synagogue, not by the design (although there was a Star of David on the window…View image) but by the armed policeman standing watch over the temple.

inside of Peitav-Shul Synagogue, Riga, Latvia
“Synagogue” means Greek assembly and is a Jewish house of prayer and the center of a community’s religious life. The Peitav-Shul Synagogue in Riga is Orthodox and a very nice man walked us around and explained everything. The synagogue is used only for services on the High Holidays, was completed in 1905, and is one of the few sacral buildings constructed in Art Nouveau style. Light, pastel colors with decorative white and light blue ornaments, it reminded me of an eastern-style building and the inside Egyptian motifs that included crossed palm branches and papyrus leaf bases just confirmed that impression. This synagogue was named Peitav-Shul after its location.

Peitav-Shul guide, Sheila and another tourist receiving information in Riga
When the Nazis entered Riga in July 1941, all the synagogues in Riga were burned down and Peitav-Shul was left standing only because of a fire risk. Our Peitav-Shul guide said the priest of a nearby church was worried the church would burn down. Peitav-Shul is one of the few Synagogues that wasn’t shut down but the Soviet Union after the war and was granted financial support in 2007 by the EU and Republic of Latvia for renovation. It had just reopened a few weeks ago.

“Remember the Jews of the Ghetto who were killed and murdered in the sanctification of God’s name”- Riga, Latvia
The Synagogue guide would have been happy to fill us with information all afternoon but we had to be back at Freedom Square by 2:00 p.m. With many thanks, we set off again with a brief stop at the large Guild Hall to by tickets for a chamber music concert tomorrow night in the Small Guild, also called St. John’s Guild and formed in the 14th century. The Small Guild Building was built between 1864-1866 in British Neo Gothic style and is supposed to be fabulously decorated on the inside. We are going to hear pianist, Diana Ketler and the Latvian Radio Chamber Singers.

The Small Guild, Riga, Latvia
Should be interesting…

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