Peshawar is the capital of the Northwest Frontier Province and who hasn’t heard of the famous Khyber Pass. We had only one day in the city and what to do…explore or go to the Khyber Pass. By this time, ex-Marine and I were completely burned out from all the driving and the thought of another several hours by “road” in both directions up to the Pass was akin to driving nails into our heads. However, Margie and Art were up for it and this is their account.

You can’t just drive up to the Khyber Pass with Afghanastan on one side and Pakistan on the other. No, you need to hire armed guards to accompany you. They hired a vehicle…hired an armed guard to ride shotgun and headed up. Kabul is visible from the top on a clear day, only a short distance away. Margie and Art spent some time in the marketplace that was selling – along with fruits and other sundries – grenades, rifles, assault weapons, bullets, rocket launchers…anything your heart desired in the way of munitions. And then, the long journey back down into Peshawar. Hindsight is 20/20: We should have gone with because I sincerely doubt we’ll ever be in Peshawar again or have a chance to visit the Khyber Pass.

Peshawar map, Pakistan
What did we do? Spent the day in blistering heat walking through the various bazaars looking at lapis lazuli, only mined in Pakistan. There were an unlimited number of shops and worn down from the heat, I was unable to make any kind of decision and thought, well, I go back tomorrow morning to buy some earrings. Back to the hotel with its sign warning against bringing munitions into the hotel…

hotel sign – leave weapons with desk in Peshawar, Pakistan
The next day dawned with the same 100+ degree temperature and I was definitely not feeling well. A lot on the nauseous, queasy side and not up for shopping. The jeep safari completely over (Hallelujah), the group headed by private bus back to Islamabad for the night.

On the road, I got sicker and sicker and finally shouted to Aslam, “have the bus pull over. I’m going to be sick.” The driver kept on going and in a few minutes I shouted: “pull over…NOW!” The driver stopped the bus along the highway. I Jumped off with ex-Marine right behind me…no shelter, tree or bushes anywhere in the vicinity…and proceeded to be violently sick at the side of the road. Semis stopped and pulled over. A bus pulled over. And then a group of shepherds left their flocks and ran over to gather around me in a circle. An entire group of people just standing around to watch the white foreigner heave her guts up. Probably a first for them that might have been the highlight of their lives. Who knows. The story may still be told in their houses 25 years later.

Back on the bus and feeling much better, Aslam was humiliated and apologetic that his people would do such a thing. My take on this was: I’m never going to see anyone of these Pakistanis again in my entire life. If by some chance one walks up to me in Chicago and says: “…excuse me…aren’t you the lady who was puking along the road to Islamabad?” Oh well….

Sheila, feeling much better after getting sick along a Pakistan Road