There was only one day to spend in Samarkand which definitely was not enough. Alexander the Great, Ghengis Khan and Timur (I’ll refer to him as Tamerlane from now on) all conquered and ruled this ancient empire with Samarkand as its jewel. This 2,750 year old city had a prominent position on the Silk Road between China and the West and was also a Islamic center. Interesting facts: Samarkand is the same age as Rome, Athens and Babylon and was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.
Breakfast and off for some “power touring” visiting the dramatic Registan Square first considered to be the most magnificent landmark in Samarkand. The Registan was the ancient center of the city, and the Square is lined on three sides by gorgeous, turquoise tiled Madrassahs (Arabic for Islamic schools), and wide open spaces. The three Madrassahs are: Ulugbek Madrassah (15th Century), Sher-Dor Madrassah and Tilla-Kari Madrassah (gold covered) (both 17th Century). All of the interiors and exteriors are decorated with glazed bricks, mosaics and carved marble.

Tamerlane began construction on the Bibi Hanim Mosque in 1399, after his successful campaign in India with the thought that this Mosque had to eclipse all others he had seen. Over 200 stonemasons from Azerbaijan, Iran, Hindustan, etc., worked inside the mosque. Five hundred workers toiled in the mountains cutting and trimming stones along with other craftsmen with this exquisite Mosque the final result. Two minarets, spacious inside yard, small mosques on either side, and walls decorated with glazed bricks which formed intricate geometric designs.
Even more to see.,.Turquoise domes…Bibi-Khanym Mosque…and the Shahi-Zinda, a street of tombs belonging to Tamerlane’s and Ulughbek’s family and favorites…Tamerlane’s own tomb with its famous blue ribbed cantaloupe dome and massive slab of green jade, under which he was laid to rest. One last “must see.” The Uleg Bek Observatory where Uleg Bek, grandson of Tamerlane, made important astronomical observations without help of optical instruments.
At last, my favorite area, the bazaar around the Bibi-Khanym Mosque. An entire day is necessary to adequately browse through all the carpet shops, other holes in the wall, and “stuff.” Completely fantastic and under pressure, still managed to buy another rug. It wasn’t easy with the time constraints, but when the going gets tough…

I have to go back to Samarkand. Difficult to truly appreciate and enjoy the sights in one short day. Exhausted, tomorrow was going to be another killer heading towards the Fergana Valley.



March 4th, 2009
Sheila Simkin 
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