A common question from friends: How do you deal with jet lag? Our solution…a prescription for low-dose sleeping pills. We take one only, the night of arrival in a 8+ hour time zone change. Coming back home, sleeping pills the first two nights and that works great for us. For the first time ever in Sofia, we overslept…something that has never happened before, and raced down to breakfast, apologizing profusely to everyone. The group was composed of several couples, a woman traveling alone, a man traveling alone, women friends together from all parts of the country.
Completely awake now, the mini-bus headed to Mt. Vitosha, just outside the city and Bulgaria’s highest ski resort at 5,940′. A very short warm-up hike, lunch, and off to Plovdiv. The Old Town of Plovdiv was absolutely charming with timber-frame mansions and Ottoman-era mosques. The bus parked and everyone started walking through the steep cobbled streets, admiring each house from the 18th-19th century with their own style and atmosphere. Some of these houses are now museums. Very peaceful and we were the only tourists at that time of the day. (Most tour groups probably visit in the early morning.)


Plovdiv was founded by King Philip II of Macedonia (Alexander the Great’s father) and is situated on three hills in the Thracian Plain. Heading towards the Amphitheatre and 2nd century Theatre still remaining from Roman times, ex-Marine and I got side-tracked by the many little antique shops tucked away on these streets. Told Tim we’d meet them at the ruins and immediately started browsing. A small purchase of a shlocky, tin, approximately 10 tall Russian cigarette box that also played music with a wind-up key. Just too kitschy to resist.

Old Plovdiv is also an architectural reserve and a a major tourist attraction. If you visit Bulgaria, every tourist itinerary visits Plovdiv and we most definitely could have used a lot more time there. (That the main reason ex-Marine and I travel by ourselves when feasible). A fast walk over to the Roman Theatre and it was time to leave….

…for the Gorni Voden Monastery now a hotel! This area is also known for its goats, a mainstay of mountain village economies. The goats provide milk for yoghurt and cheese and goat hair for woven rugs, and while sitting on a bench eating lunch, this little lady walked down the street with her small herd of goats…(all together now…up on a hill is a lonely goatherd……one of my favorite mountain songs)…


Gorni Voden Monastery was built in 1835 and the three-star hotel had views across the Plovdiv Valley along with a restaurant. During World War II, it was converted into a concentration camp and after the war turned into an institution for mentally ill people before being transformed into a hotel. I was very happy that we didn’t know the entire upsetting history of Gorni Voden Monastery while staying there.





September 6th, 2007
Sheila Simkin
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