This long awaited day had finally arrived and we were nervous and excited. Dressed in a lightweight fleece top, long pants, gaiters and boots, we were ready to eat breakfast and leave. Arriving at Volcanoes National Park, everyone was amazed to see the goings-on. Various tour groups, guides, park rangers running around, registering people, drinking coffee, using the bathrooms, locals on the road…View image. Even though I logically knew there was going to be a lot of activity, it hadn’t registered until that moment. Up to now, the day was starting out warm and sunny…maybe we wouldn’t need our rain jackets…with wonderful views of the volcanos…

a Virunga volcano, Rwanda
Pat came over to Steve (ex-Marine) and myself and asked if we minded being in a different group other than the people we were traveling with. We had no objections and joined a group of Belgiums and two English girls. The Belgium people had come to Rwanda strictly to see the gorillas – flying in and out of Kilgali, Rwanda and this was the 3rd day of gorilla viewing. Big Dian Fossey fans.

We were going to see the Amahoro Group today, consisting of at least 14 gorillas. Francois, would be our guide…

…and set about showing a picture of each gorilla in the Amahoro Group…View image… along with their names, and additional instructions:

- If you had to cough, cover your mouth and turn away from the gorillas.
- Keep your voice low.
- Don’t make sudden movements
- If a gorilla charges or vocalizes at you, stand still, look away from the gorilla and follow Francois’ directions.
- Don’t let the gorillas touch you.
- If the gorilla walks towards you, stand still.
- If the gorilla runs at you, get off the path and down.
Back into the vehicles and up a terrible road for a half ride to our drop-off point. Got out, no one in our group hired porters, us macho people carried our own daypacks, and started walking across fields of potatoes and Pyrethrum (I thought they were daisy fields). Pyrethrum is a natural source of insecticide and a big economic crop in Rwanda. The flowers are pulverized and the active components called pyrethrins are most commonly used as a spray to kill insects. ex-Marine has been selling industrial chemicals for over 38 years and was familiar with this ingredient, but had never seen a Pyrethrum field. Back at Gorilla Nest later, we noticed the ads for Pyrthrum.



A Cape Buffalo had gotten into the potato fields the night before and destroyed many crops. We were gradually climbing and Francois would stop occasionally to deliver some gorilla information. For example, he showed us exactly how gorillas eat bamboo. They break down the stalks (over eight-feet long), peel them neatly and crunch away. Fact: 10 Bamboo stalks equal 1 can of beer, and sometimes a gorilla actually gets drunk. They also alternate mouthfuls with a few “salad greens” – nettles. Gorillas strip the stalk of spines and chow down on them between bamboo bites. If you ever need moisture to survive, hope there is bamboo around…very watery. …View image…

We reached the lava wall that marked the boundaries of the park…View image… View image…with guards walking in front and back carrying AK-47′s and started the serious uphill portion of the gorilla trek. We were told that the guards were there for our protection from the buffalos and to protect the gorillas from poachers, but we think the guard were there to protect us from rebels and criminals who come over from DRC.




February 2nd, 2007
Sheila Simkin
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