The Mogao Caves were 25km from Dunhuang and even though we had our own excellent guide, you still had to tour with a licensed Mogao guide within the fenced-off area. Photography was strictly forbidden everywhere within that area, and each cave had keys to open and protect all of the caves we visited. There are 30 caves open to the public and “special caves” to visit if you pay additional fees. These spectacular cliff caves are filled with Buddhist artwork and painted statues dating from 386 AD to the 13th century. The Mogao Caves/Grottoes are another World Heritage Site.

In the morning, we shared the Mogao guide for the ordinary caves with two Germans and one English person…that was the entire extent of all the Westerners visiting the caves that day. Our guide explained how the walls and ceilings were painted with layers of cement and clay and then painted with watercolors. Most caves have been retouched but it was amazing what wonderful condition the “special caves” still were in and the vibrancy of the colors.

stupas scattered around the grounds, Magao Caves, China

outside facade of the Mogao complex, China
In the afternoon, a private visit to the special caves, 45, 57, 156, 158, 217, 275, 220 and 285. The cave openings are stacked five stories high, some reaching a height of 164 feet. According to Tang Dynasty records, a monk witnessed a vision of 1,000 Buddhas under showers of golden rays. Inspired, he started the caves construction work. Mogao Caves are also known as the Caves of a Thousand Buddhas.

outside of one cave, Magao Caves, China 

a small fraction of one inside cave, Magao Caves, China
Dunhuang is a “do not miss” on the Silk Road, just as it was 2,000 years ago – as a stopping-off point for incoming and outgoing trading caravans. ex-Marine and I were now part of the “outgoing” caravan heading to visit the pass site and on to Lanzhou.