October 9th, 2006 
Sheila Simkin Lunch in Anshun and then a 2-1/2 hour ride toward Liuzhi to visit a subgroup of the Miao Minority, Soga Village of Chang Jiao Miao (Long Horn Miao people).
This was an heartbreakingly basic village. Most of the province still lives below the national poverty level even though the government is trying to change this. Soga was dirty with lots of chickens running around (visions of “bird flu” ran through my mind) …View image…but the “Hair” was what made Soga so interesting and worth visiting along with the exquisite batik and embroidery that they make.
We watched three women show us how they made their amazing big hairdos (and I thought my hair was expandable!). They started with pieces of wood dowels, stuck them through their own hair …View image….then start wrapping lots of artificial looking “hair” (really long black pieces of yarn) around the wood to make the hair stand out, finishing with long strips of fabric which decorated this intricate, ornate wig. This must eliminate ever having a “bad hair day.” Interestingly enough, I just read an article about Marie Antoinette’s “big hair” in Vogue. Perhaps, her stylist got his ideas from the Miao women.
At one time, their wigs were made of human hair but collectors have cornered the market by visiting the villages and buying them up.
It’s the same situation with most of the “silver” that you see. Silver ornaments make up an important part of Miao dress because it is believed to be the symbol of light which dispels evil spirits. When bathing a newborn, parents often put a piece of silver into the water to act as a blessing for the baby’s future. Miao families also dress their daughters with silver ornaments. Silver worn by young women during special occasions can weigh more than 22 pounds. Heavy stuff! A4gain, collectors have purchased the really old pieces of silver from these villages.
So far, the different outfits we’ve seen are a feast for the eyes and they wear them every day. These tribes are so poor but lavish an immense amount of time weaving, dyeing the fabric, intricately embroidering these dresses for their own use and the traditions and designs are passed down through generations. I can’t even imagine how many hours are spent on this…by candlelight…after working in the fields all day. They must do most of it during the winter. (I wonder how much longer it will be before blue jeans make an appearance.)
Inside this very minimal house (lit by one light bulb), the chilis drying…along with the woman in her outfit were the only touches of color. The entire family lived in this one room.
inside a Long Horn Miao house, Guizhou Province, China
On to another village to visit the “Four Seals Miao”…
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This was incredibly interesting! thank you so much for sharing this with us.
And we thought we knew about bad hair days! Thanks for commenting.
Best, Sheila
omg! i want that hairstyle!
where can i get one like that?
Just start picking out your hair, adding extensions…and there you are!
I am the local guide ,if you come to guizhou CHINA liuzhi COUNTY \THE long horn miao village ,you can contact me .TEL:013688587486
Good to know. Readers, if you do an independent trip, contact him.
I really love all your pictures! Im doing a school project about the long horn miao, could I use the picture of the poor house in it? Best regards your fan^^
You are welcome to use it. Good luck with your project.
Sheila
Thanks for all u share. I am Hmong_American and Im super nervous and excited..planning on this trip to Ghuizou in the near future.
Have a wonderful time and thanks for reading. Best, Sheila
Im loving the trip u had to bad i wasnt there with you it would’ve been nice to meet Miao chinese, as a hmong american learning about the very old culture intregs me.
I am the local guide in liu zhi county .Ican show you to miao \bu yi \Ge lao\village.welcome to liu zhi GUI ZHOU CHINA.Conect me please.TELL:015286670111
I AM THE LOCAL GUIDE ,IF YOU WANT TO THE MIAO VILLAGE ,PLEASE CONTACT ME ,I WILL HELP YOU TO WHERE YOU WANT.TEL:015286670111
THANKS TO YOU SHEILA,WHEN DO YOU WILL COME TO GUI ZHOU CHINA?
Sorry, but Guizhou is not in my immediate future plans. However, will keep you in mind if plans change. Thanks for visiting Travels With Sheila. Best regards.
I?ve read a few just right stuff here. Certainly worth bookmarking for revisiting. I surprise how much effort you put to make this sort of great informative web site.
The Miao style of singing/chanting/calling is SO haunting and beautiful ! I discovered it on PBS episode of Globetrekkers with Justine Shapiro.