Sandakan, located on the Sulu Sea, at the northeastern tip of Borneo is Malaysia’s biggest fishing port. We were going to spend the night on Selingan Island, part of Turtle Island National Park. This is one of the most important Green and Hawksbill turtle breeding spots in Southeast Asia. Green turtles swim hundreds of nautrical miles across the sea, but always return to the beach where they hatched to lay their eggs some 20 or more years later.

Turtle Island was about an hour boat ride from Sandakan but before we left, spent some time walking around Sandakan and learning a few facts about the town. Sandakan served as a major port for early settlers (primarily Chinese) to Sabah and was the former capital of British North Borneo from the years 1884-1946. After WWII, the capital was transferred to Jesselton (now Kota Kinabalu). In the early as a major port for early settlers to Sabah, and most Chinese came through this port.

When Singapore and Borneo fell to the Japanese, a Prisoner of War Camp was established just outside of Sandakan to house approximately 2,400 British and Australian prisoners. In 1945, the Allies were closing in and the Japanese forced the prisoners to march to the village of Ranau in the jungle, about 150 miles. Only six Australians out of the 2,400 prisoners survived the “death march.”

We hung around for a while until our boat with other passengers was ready to leave from the old fishing village, on piers that reached far out into the sea…laden with orchids, other flowers, fishing nets and restaurants.

fishing village on the way to Selingan Island, Borneo
Upon arrival at Selingan Island Chalet, the rest of the afternoon was free to walk around, snorkel or just relax until dinner. The Park Ranger gave a presentation at the exhibition center and showed us around the hatchery. Every evening, all the turtle eggs are collected from the sand after they are laid and reburied in a sandy area where they remain until they hatch in 50-60 days. Each sand pit is tagged with the number of eggs and the date they were laid. There are usually around 40-90 in a nest though there could be up to 172 eggs.

 

turtle eggs incubating in sand pits of Selingan Island
A question of how the sex was determined was interesting. The Turtle’s sex is decided by the INCUBATION TEMPERATURE, but I don’t remember if the ones at the top, closest to the sun become females, and the ones at the bottom, males or vice-versa. Sorry.

There was also a board hanging with the daily turtle stats on it.

Green Turtle stats on Selingan Island in Turtle Island National Park, Borneo
This was becoming very exciting and the Park Ranger went on with his lecture. “… Everyone had to stay in this main house after sundown. That is when the turtles start coming ashore and no one is permitted anywhere near the beaches until sunrise except when he took us to actually see the turtle laying its eggs. You are not allowed to use flash cameras when taking photos of the turtle laying its eggs….” After that, all the people spending the night sat around talking, waiting for the Ranger to locate a turtle coming ashore. It takes a long time for the Green Turtle to lumber ashore, find a good nesting spot, use its flippers to dig a deep hole, finally begin the process of laying eggs conceal them and head back to sea.

sitting around and waiting for turtles in Turtle Island National Park, Borneo
Junior, our guide, was there at Selingan with us and he was allowed to go back and forth with the Rangers while we waited inside. It wasn’t until about 10:00pm when Junior materialized at my side whispering, “quick, Sheila…come now…” ex-Marine and I raced out onto the sand through the shrubs, tripping over branches in the dark and trying to keep an eye on Junior. (All the guides try to get their clients out there first and in front of the others.) We got to a spot, hunkered down while the Park Ranger shone a flashlight behind the turtle, and there were eggs, one after another, falling out of the turtle into the sand pit. It was every documentary we’ve ever seen brought to life…with tears falling from from the turtle’s eyes as she labored. Taking a a photo was impossible but what a mental image…what an experience.

Us, front row people, then moved to the back so others could see. You are only allowed one turtle sight and that’s it.

The next part was held back in front of the center. The Park Ranger came out with a pail full of new hatchings and gave each person one to hold. They are strong little things! Out of the 50+ turtles that we were given to release into the sea, only one or two would survive. Of course, each one of us was positive that OUR turtle was going to beat the odds and make it. Our baby turtles named, we walked down to the water and let them make their way into the sea. I get emotional just remembering the moment….