Know Before You Go – The Khampa Area of China, Eastern Tibetan Plateau


ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I recently returned from an intensive few weeks on the Eastern Tibetan Plateau. Steve, with a serious eye infection of all things, and myself with an array of tips, suggestions and trivia. Some can be used in other countries besides China and here we go…

- Bring as many medical supplies as will fit in your suitcase. You will need a Doctor’s prescription for anything serious (unlike India, Thailand and Indonesia where everything is over the counter). In a very remote area, there are no Doctors or Pharmacies. Despite carrying everthing but the kitchen sink, ex-Marine’s eye infection required an Ophthalmologist to clear up back home.

- Take a small jar of instant coffee with if you are a coffee drinker. You can either bring into a restaurant or or boil water in your room with a teapot (usually found in almost every small and big hotel). Be careful in local places. They traditionally do not have coffee cups, not all even use tea cups and either pour the boiling water in tiny paper cups or glasses. Many restaurants send their dishes out to be washed and they are returned in plastic wrap. Wouldn’t I love to do that!

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plastic wrapped, clean place settings in China
 

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selling traditional Chinese medicines on the street in the Kham area

- Either you, or your guide, should check the room to see if the toilet flushes, toilet paper (always carry extra toilet paper because the rolls are quite small), soap or not, how the shower works, if there is hot water and if so is it only between certain hour and make sure the electricity works. Again, there may only be electricity at certain times. Our 4**** in Hailougou had no hot water (we took cold showers) until a group of Government Officials checked in one day and all of a sudden, there was hot water! Not only hot water but scalding hot water. Watch out for third-degree burns.

- Vegetarians in remote areas should bring supplemental goodies or prepare to eat rice, dumplings and noodles. three times a day. Not all areas grow vegetables and fruit and even if they do, it may not be vegetable/fruit season. As for us, it was pork, pork and still more pork…fortunately one of our favorite foods. Mr. Wang would order lunch. Dish #1 would appear…”What is that?” “Pork Ribs.” Dish #2 would appear…”What is that?” “Spicy Pork.” Dish #3 would appear…”What is that?” “Either Yak Liver or Mushrooms.” That is what was available. …View image

- Xerox and bring at least a 12 copies of your passport otherwise you have to fill out the same forms in every China hotel and show to enter restricted areas. Also, the hotels scan passport and visa information and send directly to the local police who will then decide if they have to visit for a little chat.

- The humblest Chinese guesthouse/motel/hotel is fixated on marble floors. Outside, inside, courtyards and bathrooms. More slippery than an ice skating rink, watch for puddles, drips of water and your footing at all times or you’re cruising for a broken bone.

- The Chinese come into restaurants, order, eat and leave immediately. No lingering at a table and my kind of restaurant goers.

- Internet. Do not expect to Twitter, You Tube or Facebook. These sites were blocked each time we tried it and you must show identity papers to use the Internet.

- Don’t worry about being “earth friendly” in China. The Chinese throw all trash on the ground including our driver and guide. It’s hopeless. Everyone does it and please don’t send nasty comments that “Sheila shouldn’t even though everyone else does.” I don’t…this is just FYI and a fact of life in China.

- Many hotels are restricted and foreigners are not allowed. Period.

- There are over 500 million cell phones in China. Everyone has a cell phone. Carry your guide’s cell phone number with you at all times in case of emergencies. Your guide and driver don’t necessarily stay in the same hotel as you. And, my observation is the most popular phone rings are “Happy Birthday” – “Dixie” – and “Yankee Doodle”. This cracked me up every time I heard “Dixie” on someone’s cell phone.

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woman in traditional Tibetan dress with her cell phone in China

- I wouldn’t think of venturing into China’s remote areas without an English-speaking guide to translate. English is rudimentary or non-existent with the exception of “Hello.” Everyone knows hello. Either speak fluent Mandarin or prepare for an abundance of frustration.

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this Yushu Tibetan dancer did not speak English

- Allow enough time in the itinerary for spending 4-8 hours on the road just to get from point A to point B, even on good roads.

- The Chinese don’t use telephones to contact staff in a hotel. In Qinghai Province, they walk out into the hall and shout “FOO-YEN” at the top of their lungs until a little maid comes running. “Foo-yen” means “staff.” In Sichuan Province, you shout “YAH-MER”…same meaning, “staff.”

- There is no such thing as completely White Yak. Our guide said they not only dye them white but also embellish their horns with fake horns to make them look more beautiful. How often do you think the yaks need a touch-up?

And, whether you are traveling as an individual or with a group, prepare for changes in your itinerary. Do not base a trip around one event or there’s a good chance you’ll be disappointed. Weather, rain, landslides, earthquakes, the Chinese Government may decide to close an area to foreigners and even call off a big scheduled event. Both the Yushu and Lithang Horse Races take place between the end of July and beginning of August every year. Both were called off in 2009 because the Government feared Tibetan uprisings. You never know what will happen.

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typical Tibetan winter village in the Tibetan Kham area of China

Watch for articles on this amazing and interesting trip through the Eastern Tibetan Plateau, Kham Region, later this year on Travels With Sheila…

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