The last day was spent moving on up the Karawari. So quiet with absolutely nothing around to disturb the stillness. The river was constantly changing. At times, nice and wide and then you’d suddenly be traveling through narrow areas with little villages on the banks surrounded by palms, breadfruit, betel nut trees and grasses. We were going to stay at the Karawari Lodge for one night and then fly to the New Guinea Highlands, Tari, tomorrow.

Karawari Lodge had 20 rooms featuring private bathrooms, ceiling fans (no air-conditioning), mosquito nets, a big verandah and its own grass airstrip. Their excursions take people to nearby villages to witness demonstrations of traditional ceremonies. There are three Kundiman sub-clans in the area and that was our destination in the afternoon. But first, it was a very fond farewell to the Spirit and off the vessel.

off the Sepik Spirit at Karawari Lodge, New Guinea
The Kundiman are fisherman and catch catfish, tiliapa, shellfish, eels, mudcrabs, turtles and other swamp/river varieties. Sago is the staple food of most Sepik people and beside a ceremonial dance, the Kundiman were going to show us how they process Sago. Sago Palms grow around 30-50 feet and yield starch. The men cut down the palm (before or during early stages of flowering), strip the bark, exposing the white pith permeated with tough strands. The strands then have to be broken down with wooden beaters or adze (a nice way of saying “pounding the daylights out of them”). The women put the pounded strands in a woven bag (acts as a filter), add water and squeeze the bag, forcing the starchy water out into a trough where the starch sinks to the bottom. The pinky/white residue (almost pure starch) is ready to use in pancakes, stews to thicken them or baked into slabs to chew on. I was offered a taste and declined! We were also offered a sago grub considered a great delicacy. Can you guess whether or not I declined that?

local Sepik dance by Kundiman Tribe, New Guinea 

the most beautiful Sepik totem poles, New Guinea
I would have loved to buy one of those intricately carved, magnificent totem poles. Back to the Karawari Lodge for an excellent dinner and browse through all their different artifacts for sale. Buyers remorse was already setting in that I should have bought more unique artifacts.

Heading to the Highlands of New Guinea the next day…plane landed and loaded…View image…on Karawari Lodge’s grass strip…

Karawari Lodge grass strip, New Guinea
…off to Wigmen country…with the Sepik Spirit waiting below for the next eager group of adventurous people to enjoy and discover the Sepik River…