Today’s walk took us along the shore of Ennerdale Water and into Ennerdale Forest. Ennerdale Water is the most isolated Cumbrian lake because there is no public access road on either side. Up and over open fell country to reach Honister Pass and Borrowdale, a beautiful valley. Don’t you just love the names? I do. Another 12 miler with some difficult days of hiking coming up. Right now the only difficulty is England’s notorious weather. Yes…it is raining….and cool… The mountain scenery would be magnificent with all the pastures, cottages and sheep against mountains but in the rain, it’s just one long slog.

The group is friendly and in good spirits no matter what the weather is. Hy and Harvey, two of our travelers in their 60′s (HEY… we are beyond that now…in our 70′s! How did that happen?), are determined to spend hours in pubs along the way. I love pubs. There’s nothing like a toasty warm pub at the at the end of the day. But not fun sitting in sopping wet clothes dripping all over the floor. A discussion with Chris and no more pubs until the end of the walking day. May, June and September are supposed to be the driest months but not this May.

up through the rain and fog on the coast to coast through England
The walk ended in Seatoller (about a mile from the wettest place in England…how true) and we were transferred to Keswick. The consolation for all this rain (I suppose) is the deep green of all the vegetation, the incredible rhododendrons and it’s lambing season. baa…baa…Little lambs everywhere. Also, each little town had a profusion of gorgeous Rhododenrons blooming right now. Flowers and sheep became and remained a bright spot in the drear throughout the entire walk.

Keswick, pronounced “Kesick” – drop the “w” is part of Beatrix Potter’s Lake District, and there was a multi-media presentation in Keswick which told the story of Beatrix Potter’s farming life and how her conservation work is continued by the Trust. Other important Beatrix Potter sites: Hawkshead with a Beatrix Potter Gallery and a changing exhibition of some original drawings and illustrations; and Hill Top, Beatrix Potter’s little house in Sawrey.

gorgeous Rhododendrons everywhere in England 

charming homes entering Keswick, England
The Lake District is also famous for Wordsworth and his house in Cockermouth. This was Wordsworth’s famous birthplace. (Shame on me…I was totally unaware of Wordsworth and to add to my ignorance…never read his poetry. I will have to remedy that.)

Annette, Sharon & Brad, fellow sufferers on the Coast to Coast through England
Three nights in Keswick-on-Derwentwater at the Crow Park Hotel, an elegant early Victorian building built around 1800. Wonderful rooms and fantastic food. Speaking of food, it’s time for Sheila’s brief discourse on bacon. (Vegetarians – don’t read…) ex-Marine and I adore bacon. We can knock-off 5-10 pieces easily if conscience doesn’t get in the way. (Bad Sheila…fat…cholesterol…nitrates…bad, bad, bad) Resistance and healthy eating go down the drain when English bacon appears. It exists in a world of it’s own and a proper English breakfast with rashers of thick, slab-cut (and sometimes home-cured on premises) bacon was “hog heaven” for us.

one of our delightful B&B rooms in England 

lush countryside outside the room in England