We drove along the Gilgit river from Gupis on another barely passable road (what else is new). More of the same…crippled, hunched over, eating pistachios and relieving ourselves behind buses and rocks. An entire day of this with not too much scenery to reward us. It’s difficult to relate what the journey was like without you being there. Dealing with the dirt and dust…at times, jeep tires only inches from an abyss…the heart-stopping moments when another jeep appeared coming towards us on this same trail….

Pulling up to Phander Lake, we stared in amazement at the so-called camping spot for tonight. It was almost entirely under water. Margie and I looked at each…ex-Marine and Sue looked at each other…we stood on the squishy, marshy camping spot and waited to see what was going to happen. Aslam and Nigel had a fast conference, it was back into the jeeps and we all drove further up the valley.

flooded campsite at Phander Lake, Pakistan

surely, we weren’t going to camp on a flooded plain in Pakistan
Another hour’s drive and there was an ideal camp spot along the river. There is supposed to be fantastic golden trout fishing in this area and we could see why. There are also walks in this area but by nighttime every day, all everyone wanted to do was get in a prone position.

helping Sue with tent at Phander Lake, Pakistan 

beautiful camp site along the river, Phander, Pakistan 

another gracious dining experience in Pakistan
Early morning awakening by “moos”….the local cattle were being driven through our campsite. Instead of jeeps right off, a short walk along the river to stretch legs. Nigel could tell the “trying to stay cheerful” trekkers were getting restless…

cattle moseying through Camp in Pakistan 

a short walk along the river at Phander Lake, Pakistan
Into the jeeps for the miserable ride up to Shandur Pass, site of the highest polo field in the world at 3,700m/12,250′.

on the Shandur Pass road in Pakistan
Seasonal polo matches (in June) are played between the Chitralis and the Gilgities. Polo has been played here since the 1920′s when a British resident came up with the idea of holding the tournament in this location. The game was played under the following rules: A game would last one hour…a short break between two 30-minute chukkars…each player would be allowed only one horse for the duration of the match…and stoppages allowed only for serious injuries to a horse or player… According to Aslam…View image…Polo was once played with the heads of sheep, goats and other animals and in Genghis Khan’s day, every the severed heads of conquered enemies! This annual tournament must be something to see, but I’ll take a pass on returning.

Shandur Pass road kept winding up, Pakistan 

group photo on the polo grounds at Shandur Pass, Pakistan 

Shandur Pass polo field, Pakistan