Mount Erciyes erupted around 2000 years ago in the Cappadocia Region. The resulting ash and lava formed soft rocks that covered about 20,000 km/12,000mi. The softer rock was eventually eroded by wind and water which left a hard cap rock on top of pillars. This is what is referred to as “Fairy Chimneys” but looks exactly like a male erection to most people. As a matter of fact, visitors usually begin laughing hysterically and making sexual innuendos upon first beholding the pillars. The inhabitants of Goreme began to carve houses, churches and monasteries out of the soft rocks and many examples of Byzantine art still remain.

Goreme is a district of the Nevsehir Province in Turkey and one of Cappadocia’s most famous attractions. The Goreme Open Air Museum is a complex of medieval painted cave churches carved by Orthodox monks. The van drove us to sightsee both Goreme and Cavusin before returning to Avanos for the night.

Cappodocia, Turkey map 

these don’t look like Cappadocia “fairy chimneys” to me, Turkey 

lunar landscape of Cappadocia, Turkey
The monastic complex of Goreme contains over 10 cave churches along with rectories, dwellings, and religious school carved out of a ring-shaped rock formation. Just follow the path a visit each…or select one or two. Jack and Cemil took the group into the most interesting and told a little about the history.

Goreme Open Air Museum, Cappadocia, Turkey
It is difficult for any visitor to even imagine what glories are hidden inside these plain rock formations. I myself thought, “Big deal. Churches inside.” But then you enter and prepare to be dazzled by colorful and beautifully painted Byzantine murals dating from 900-1200 AD. Saints, figures, symbols, medieval art, New Testament scenes and other subjects. Each church unique from the next with a different theme. Quite a few look as if they could have just been painted yesterday, that’s how good their condition is.

One comical (to me) fact that we learned about these churches: In Turkey as well as other Middle Eastern countries, locals are afraid of the Evil Eye and a blue bead to ward it off is common. (I have a few blue beads myself.) Well, nearly all the eyes of the painted figures in Goreme have been gouged out by superstitious locals afraid of the Evil Eye! Superstition and fear of the…gasp… Evil Eye is also strong in other countries and known as mal occhio in Italy, mal ojo in Spain, jettatore in Sicily, bla band in Iran, and even ayin ha’ra in Hebrew! Back to the Churches…

The frescoes of the Apple Church primarily date from the 11th century. The name possibly derives from a red orb near the entrance or it could have been that an apple tree once grew next to it. Whatever the origin, it is called the Apple Church.

painted arch in the “Apple Church” in Goreme, Turkey
Gavusin was a short 2km/1.2mi from Goreme and had even more caves and churches. We spent a short period of time climbing in and out of the caves before returning to Avanos. A very impressive first day in Cappadocia and a morning hike was scheduled for tomorrow through this unusual landscape.

the caves and rocks of Gavusin, Cappadocia, Turkey 

Sheila making her way down a ladder in Cappadocia, Turkey
Traveling to a particular country? Make the most of your trip with our Lonely Planet Country Guides.