There were still miles to go before Estaing Our boots will never be the same again from all the mud but the sun was shining and that made us happy. The terrain changed and became more scenic. Rolling hills…vivid green moss on the rocks….View image..forests…View image…nothing too difficult…except for the pains in my feet. By now, I’d start off each day taking teeny-tiny steps and leaning heavily on walking sticks until those painful achilles loosened up. If it wasn’t for all the Aleve, Motrin, Advil and Tylenol (kept switching on-and-off trying to find the best pain-killer), we truthfully couldn’t have made it.

Down one hill, past the Chateau de Beauregard, and then a well-preserved village, Verrieres. Verrieres was so extremely charming with its ancient stonework that I starting shooting photos like a maniac. A few ridges, plateaus…

Chateau de Beauregard on the Way of St. James, France

Verrieres along the Way of St. James, France 

At very long last, Estaing in the distance…a fairy-tale town and one of those places you just have to experience to understand…

Estaing across the river, France
…across the Gothic Bridge with its statue of Francoise d’Estaing, Bishop of Rodez and considered a guardian angel…View image

Estaing Gothic Bridge, France 

Francoise d’Estaing, France
Estaing (pop: 612) is an impossibly gorgeous medieval village, one of the most picturesque we’d seen the entire trip. The houses were nestled around the 15th century Castle built by the Comtes d’Estaing. Once across the bridge, our Hotel Aux Armes d’Estaing (a 2** Logis de France) was directly in front of us, overlooking the Lot River. Arriving around lunchtime, the owner and wait staff were rushing around like mad serving a sold-out lunch crowd in the restaurant. Our suitcases hadn’t arrived yet, and the owner had no time to check us in. Rested our weary legs in the lobby, left the backpacks and went back out to explore.

Hotel Aux Armes d’Estaing, France
My first all-important discovery was a great-looking patisserie, closed since it was lunch time, but I memorized the location for a fast return. There were Pilgrim hikers all over the village, walking through, speaking a babble of languages.

more Estaing pilgrims along the Way of St. James 

Castle in Estaing, France
The Church of St. Fleuret, 15th century, had a cross outside with a kneeling pilgrim at its base…and the interior was as impressive as the exterior…View image… This church was dedicated to its patron Saint Fleuret, bishop of Clermont, with “relics” inside the church.

Church of St. Fleuret, Estaing, France 

interior of St. Fleuret, Estaing, France 

one of Estaing’s quaint streets, France
By now, the patisserie had re-opened amd I had to make a choice from all those yummy pastries. After a major decision-making process, apple tarts won the contest.

Apple? Custard? Cream Puffs? Chocolate? Strawberries? Estaing, France patisserie
Apple may have won the day but I also decided on the big choice for tomorrow for the hike to Espeyrac. Figured that 23 kms/14.2 miles deserved some goodies. This delicious, luscious, incredible-looking big lacy almond cookie was going to be IT.

Almond crunchy, gigantic cookie, Estaing, France
Goodies in hand, along with a bottle of wine from Chateau de Beauregard (the Chateau we passed today), it was back to the hotel, the suitcases were there (would you believe 3rd floor again) and it was time to scrape off the layers of dirt and clean up for dinner.
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