Reinvigorated after that wonderful lunch, it was into the **Auberge St. Jacques (Logis de France), right in the center of town. So lucky about that…so unlucky that we are not only on the 3rd floor again, but after schlepping the bags to the 3rd floor, there were four steps down inside our room. I’m not complaining…this is the last schlep. Conques has a 4***, two 3***, and several 2** hotels, a total of 16 which is quite a bit considering this is a town with a population of only 302!

The major focus in Conques is the former Abbey-Church of Ste. Foy (St. Faith). Conques became a pilgrimage destination in the 9th century when it acquired the relics of a 4th century child martyr, Ste. Foy (St. Faith). Like any business, Conques needed a special attraction (or draw) to get pilgrims visiting (along with their money). Enter…a monk in 866…who managed to obtain these relics by “furtive translation,”…in otherwords, he stole them…and then staged a convenient set of miracles! That did the trick…PILGRIMS…and it didn’t take too long before Conques was an important staging post on the pilgrim route. (The little bits of information that none of us ever learned in History classes.)

Sheila and Church of Ste. Foy, Conques, France
The Abbey-Church of Ste. Foy holds one of the most important collections of medieval and Renaissance goldwork in Western Europe. The church itself is huge with a wide chancel that allowed pilgrims to file past the Saint’s relics once displayed there. The inside was also very stark and simple with stoned columns and arcades.

Ste. Foy inside view, Conques, France
The tympanum (space between an arch and the door) is the Last Judgement, a major piece of Romanesque sculpture, from the beginning of the 12th century. There are 124 figures in the tympanum. …View image…

Last Judgement tympanum, Conques, France 

Ste. Foy Church fresco, Conques, France
Conques is a UNESCO world-heritage site and one of the “Plus BeauxVillages de France” (most beautiful villages in France). Titles like that are not given freely and Conques was the definite highlight of this trip. Steep cobblestone streets, roses, poppies and greenery everywhere, golden stone houses, called for photo after photo.

unusual Conques house detail, France
Conques also had four gateways still surviving from the 13th century. The Porte du Barry had an arch of red sandstone with a timber-framed dwelling on top….

Porte du Barry gateway to Conques, France 

another Conques entrance, France
…several fountains, all tapped since at least the 12th century.

Fontaine du Barry, Conques, France
There were two communal bread ovens built outside the ramparts probably to avoid the risk of fire. They were restored, and are in working order…

old bread oven in Conques, France
This little house, called a Sechoir a chataignes, was used to store chestnuts on the upper level. Chestnuts were an important food supply for the local people, abundant throughout the countryside…

Sechoir house for chestnut drying and storage in Conques, France
…and this is one of the many cobblestone stairs I limped my way up and down

one of the many cobblestone steps in Conques, France
With the Tourist Office assistance, we’ve worked out a plan for tomorrow. A taxi to St. Christophe train station, take the train to Brive la Gaillarde, and change to another train with final destination, Paris-Austerlitz station, where we’ll take the RER to Charles de Gaulle Airport and spend the night in a Comfort Inn by the Airport.

Every pilgrim makes their way through (and usually spends the night) in Conques, and our friendly Alsace friends were no exception. Many hugs and wishes for a bon voyage, because they too were leaving the trail tomorrow and returning to Alsace…

Alsace friends, fellow-pilgrims on the Way of St. James, France