“Travel Tips & Advice on Kham Area”


Sopo Watchtower Village, China

I looked out of our 7th floor Old Castle Hotel window this morning and a maid was out on a room balcony washing the floor. When finished, she picked up the bucket of water, looked carefully below to make sure no one was standing there and emptied the pail over the balcony…View image. Caught her [...]

Rabbit for Lunch? Danba’s Gyarong Market in The Kham Area of China

Lunch today in Danba involved a hysterical conversation between Mr. Wang and order taker, “Foo-yen” (the word for “Staff”), over what this little restaurant offered. Their specialities were heavy on rabbit, yak’s liver, tripe and other assorted delicicies that “me no like.” Consultations over, and decision made, lunch was – “foot mushrooms” in broth (these [...]

Jiaju (Gyarong) Typical Tibetan Village Outside of Danba, China

Heavy rains last night caused landslides and kept us from visiting the Gyarong village, Chongio and Suopo…View image, originally scheduled on the itinerary and too dangerous to attempt. The only option would have been a very muddy two-hour walk in each direction up the mountain something that none of us relished. Instead, Mr. Wang drove [...]

Ethnic Danba Village in The Kham Region of China

Danba (pop: 30,000) is a small county in the mountain valley of the Kham Sichuan and the landscape varies from high-altitude snow-capped mountains to low-altitude grasslands. The population is primarily ethnic Gyarongs/Jiarong (“Jah-row”) Tibetans that wear completely different clothing from the Khampas we’d seen up to now. Danba is not “off the road least traveled” [...]

Ganze/Ganzi/Kandze to Danba in the Kham Region of China

The different Chinese names for each town drove me crazy. I began to keep the itinerary with me at all times in the Land Cruiser. Today’s destination was Danba, also spelled “Temba” and then Dondup would pronounce the name of a town in Tibetan. Whatever it was called, Danba or Temba, we were staying for [...]

From Derge (Dege) to The Important Monastery City of Ganzi, China

Lunch today was interesting. There was a spicy beef with hot stones (be aware and don’t bite into the stones…you’ll break a tooth) in it to keep it hot and a vegetable dish with what appeared to be “Rice Krispie bars” floating in it. There’s a story about the Chinese version of Rice Krispie pieces. [...]

A Prostrating Buddhist Monk and Other Road Sights on The Way to Ganzi, China

Dumplings…View image… for breakfast, packed up. Before leaving the brand-new White Pagoda Hotel, the four of us stood while the hotel manager carefully checked that nothing had been damaged or stolen! Now in the Land cruiser and out through Dege/Derge on the same road we had entered. Back through the forests, canyons and valley for [...]

Dege/Derge’s Bekong Scripture Printing Lamasery, Eastern Tibetan Plateau, China

Lunch over, we sat around outside the 250 year old Bekong Scripture Printing Lamasery because it didn’t reopen until 2:30 p.m. The Printing House is located on the east bank of Jinsha (Sequ) River and was founded in 1729 in the Qing Dynasty. Construction took over 21 years on this four-story building. A visit to [...]

The Ancient Center of Tibetan Buddhism is Derge, China

Dege/Derge is the westernmost city in Sichuan before a mountain road leads to the vast Tibetan highland and was named after the Dege clan whose influence spread over present-day Sichuan, Tibet and Qinghai. It was one of the three ancient centers of Tibetan Buddhism culture, of great significance to the Khampas and one of the [...]

Xinlu/Xinluhai Lake and Over The Highest Pass to Dege/Derge, Eastern Tibetan Plateau

Early morning brought a visit to Xinlu/Xinluhai Holy Lake at the foot of Que’er (“Sheer”) Mountain before driving to Derge/Dege. Imodium and Cipro not only did the trick but managed to jam up the works for the next five days until I had to resort to the opposite “end” (forgive the pun) of the spectrum [...]