Bastar was once a substantial State and the majority of its people are still tribal with unique though rapidly disappearing lifestyles. North Bastar is home to the Muria Gond tribe, famous for their Gotul system.

What is a Gotul? It is a co-ed dormitory system where the unmarried young people (from the age of 9 or 12 until they marry in their late teens) live and make their own rules away from adults whose presence in the Gotul is taboo. They are allowed to have sexual relations with anyone they chose, but must change partners after several days. Wouldn’t our teenagers just love that?
At the first Muria tribe near Bahigaon, a villager greeted us dressed in this spectacular headdress. A small indication of what was in store for us.

a Muria “pom-pom” turban in Chattisgarh/Chhatisgarh, India

The drums were lined up…View image…and the dancers were ready.

Muria dance in Chattisgarh/Chhatisgarh, India
For the next few days, we visited more tribes and markets than was imaginable. …View image… Each and every one, vibrant and unique. After spending time with the villagers, it was time for the Nangurand tribal weekly market.

Two men had their own little businesses, custom-making necklaces. First you picked out a good-luck-ward-off-evil-eye medallion, what color threads, and anything else you wanted, and the jewelry maker went to work. Wrapping one end of the thread around a piece of metal on his big toe, rapidly personalizing your necklace. Jai had one made for me….and I proudly wore it for the remainder of the trip….View image

creating a necklace in the market, Chattisgarh/Chhatisgarh, India

 

Wearing my new good-luck charm, we checked into the Hotel Rainbow in Bastar’s capital, Jagdalpur….
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