Survanbahmi Airport has really gotten its act together. No more mob scenes around the luggage carousels, but still with the familiar touts waiting outside customs hoping to scare you into taking one of their cars or taxis. DON’T! Walk outside, get in the taxi line and for less than $10 you’ll be taken to your hotel, no matter what time of day or night.

Back at the Grand Mercure Park Avenue, a fast check-in and crash into bed with a wake-up call for their excellent buffet breakfast. Made-to-order eggs, chinese breakfast, noodles, fruit, yogurt, breads and so much more. Wouldn’t miss it for the world.

Reenergized, we set off to visit Laha Prasart (Metal Castle) located in Wat Ratchanaddaram. It’s called “Metal Castle” because the spires are made of metal, built in Thai-style with 37 spires. These spires symbolize the 37 items of Dharma in Buddhism. (I tried to find out exact what that meant without success. If you know, enlighten me.) There have only been three Laha Prasarts in the world and only this one has survived.

A walk from there over to Khao San Road, no longer the hippie section it once was. We stayed in this area during our last trip in and out of Bangkok, situated a short walk from the Grand Palace and the River. There are still budget accommodations and the occasional drugged out person walking down the middle of the road, but there are also new, upscale places to stay and eat. Even Khao San’s new Starbucks is in a refurbished 1907 home. Some of the many gentrified places to try are Rikki Inn, Pik Thai (an outdoor restaurant) and D&D Inn. We’re thinking of staying around here next time.

From there, a short (but hot) walk to the Chao Phraya River for the riverboat to Taksin, and then the easy Sky Train back to the Grand Mercure for a short rest.