Today, it was time for what some tourists consider the piece de resistance of Angkor Wat, the famous Bayon, built by King Jayavarmann VII, a Buddhist Temple. I happen to like the Bayon better than Angkor Wat itself. Probably because of the 37 towers, all with four carved faces oriented towards the cardinal points. There is disagreement as to whether the faces are the compassionate Buddha, Bodhisatttva, King Jayavarman or a combination of both. Who cares. It is very, very impressive.
Our bus was too big to go through the gate and we transferred to tuk-tuks into the Bayon. You can also ride an elephant to this point, or around the Bayon itself. We were fortunate to see the Head Mahout idling on the elephant when we got off the tuk-tuks and our guide asked him to take us for a fast 10-minute ride around.

IMPORTANT FACT: You must reserve an elephant ride in advance during the busy season. An elephant ride costs $10/person. Ask your mahout to stop for photos or he’ll just keep going. Also, this was one of the most uncomfortable elephant rides we’ve ever taken due to the seat. It cuts right behind your knees…very painful while jolting around the 10-minute circuit.


There are different entrances into the main portion of the Bayon and narrow stairs up to the level with the faces. A colorfully dressed troupe was also on the terrace posing with groups for a small sum. There wasn’t enough time at the Bayon to really enjoy all the bas-reliefs depicting scenes of everyday life in 12th century along the inner courts at the bottom. Karen and Jeremy paid a return trip to the Bayon devoting the entire time just to these carvings. You may want to do the same.



Off the damn elephant, the group walked over to the Terrace of the Elephants with its intricate elephant carvings, and the Leper King terrace. I like the Terrace of the Elephants much better. The carvings of elephants going off to war, hunting scenes, the three-headed elephant, etc. were more interesting. There is intensive reconstruction being done by various countries. It’s easy to pick out the obviously new sections from the old. Deliberately done.


Sitting in front of the Elephant Terrace, watching all the tourists and waiting for our group, a man walked by wearing an Earthwatch T-Shirt. (Read about our earlier Earthwatch Archeological Dig in Thailand.) Jumped up and introduced ourselves because ex-Marine happened to be wearing his Earthwatch T-shirt today. Okay…what a small world…

Lunch (finally) in the village of Banteay Srey. This temple complex was right across the dusty street from the series of little restaurants. A good location for visiting Banteay Srey after lunch. Nothing notable about lunch with the exception of all the Pepsi posters used almost as wallpaper…

…and a small sign teaching the locals a few English phrases…including the key phrase…




June 6th, 2008
Sheila Simkin
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