Time for the road trip and approximately 56 kms/34 miles north of Damascus is Maaloula/Maalula, an ancient town where the people still speak Aramaic (the same language of Jesus Christ). Aramaic is also spoken among other communities in northern Syria near the Iraqi border. Maalula is situated 1500m/4,921′ above sea level and in a stunning location at the entrance to a rocky gorge.
At first sight, Maalula reminded me of the many villages nestled in the mountains of Yemen (especially Kawkaban). Small, different colored houses making their way up the steep mountain with narrow little streets. The driver parked the bus, and off the group went on a path through the village. Maalula is a predominantly Christian village (pop: 2,000) and there were two ancient Christian monasteries to visit, Mar Sarkis and Mar Taqla, but Maalula alone is worth seeing if only for this extremely scenic village and a chance to wander around.


Mar Sarkis (Greek Catholic St. Sergius Monastery) was built in the fourth century on the remains of a pagan temple and named after St. Sarkis (St. Sergius), a Roman soldier who was executed for his Christian beliefs. Big collections and displays of icons in both the monastery and convent.
A little further down is Mar Takla (St. Thecla) Greek Orthodox Monastery. Thecla had a very bizarre life. There is a legend that she was converted by St. Paul, immediately broke off her engagement whereupon her fiance had her flogged and sentenced to death by fire. (Nice guy!) Thecla was saved by a thunderstorm, escaped. Then, Thecla withdrew to a cave until she was persecuted again, at the age of 90! (Couldn’t they leave the poor woman alone?) Rocks and gorge opened up, swallowed her and now both Christian and Muslim pilgrims pay constant visits to this religious monument. Great story!
However, the most interesting part of Maaloula/Maalula after the first incredible sight of the village climbing the hills was when a group of young men broke out into a spirited dance in the road. Looked like a Hora to me…

On to Krak des Chevaliers Castle….




October 31st, 2008
Sheila Simkin
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