The Todra Gorge has dramatic cliffs that rise vertically and leaves just a narrow pass. It was formed as a result of an enormous fault in the plateau which separates the High Atlas from the Jebel Saghro. The Wadi Todra River flows through the Todra Gorge with crystal-clear waters creating lush palmeries that line the banks. These fertile fields that extend in Tinghir/Tinehir are filled with produce, date palms, grains, olive groves, fruit orchards and almond trees filled with pink flowers that had just begun blooming.
The focus of our trip to the Todra Gorge today was an optional moderate hike to Abdelali viewpoint for panoramas across to the Jebel Sahro, the Dades Valley and down into the gorge. The walk generally takes around five hours roundtrip. In hot weather, temperatures it can be more demanding and Explore said that walking boots with ankle support was essential. ex-Marine and I didn’t want to carry heavy hiking boots in suitcases on a one-month trip that would only be used once and opted out of the group hike. But first, an early breakfast.
Wonder of wonders, there was actually freshly squeezed orange juice, the usual bread, and a woman making the Moroccan version of crepes. When making a French crepe, batter is thinly ladled into a crepe pan. She rolled out a thin dough, folded it into a square and fried it. However made, it was delicious and a welcome break from bread.


It was a very scenic (and early in the morning) 30-minute drive into the Todra Gorge with stunning mountains and villages in every shade of ochre, pastel, orange, and red set in the middle of green date palms. The views extended on both sides of the road deep into the gorge. The bus parked and Aziz pointed out Cafe La Vallee that would serve as the noon meeting place for both hikers and stay-behinds who had different options. We could stroll along the river or just sit in the cafe, soak up the sun and read. The entire group began walking on the road that stretches through the entire bottom of the Todra Gorge, past a few substandard hotels (according to Aziz), admiring the towering and dramatic rock walls and caves…View image….in this narrow gorge.

When we reached the spot where the trail began ascending the rocky trail, those who intended to hike started up the mountain with Aziz…View image, while the remaining four of us began walking alongside the Todra River. Whatever I expected, it wasn’t this. The Explore dossier described it as, “…alternatively you may opt to explore the gorge valley floor following the path of the river and take in local scenery from one of the nearby cafes….” What it didn’t say was you follow the path of the river by walking on the road! A very windy and dusty road (to be fair it just may have been this windy today), with tons of caravans, trucks, automobiles and other local traffic busily making their way on this “highway.”

That being said, the Todra Gorge is dramatic. The springs/stream and Todra River comes from the melting snow on the mountains. The area is very fertile and locals were hard at work in the fields while other Berber women drove their goats up to better grazing land. The vertical cliffs changed colors by the minute with the light, and rose over 300m/900′ to make an amazing contrast against the bright blue sky…View image.


We walked along the road for about one hour before turning back to the cafe. You could walk/bike/or drive to the last village in the Todra Gorge area, Tamtattouchte. I think Aziz said the distance was equal to a marathon and would take hours. And, I later discovered that the continuation of that route from Tamtattouchte went up, around and into the Dades Valley. Our Todra Gorge highlight was sitting on boulders to watch a few rock climbers work their way up the steep cliffs…View image.
After a while, the walk became monotonous plus we were eating dust and sand from the strong winds and traffic in the Gorge. Settled down in Cafe La Vallee in a sunny spot with a good book to wait for the serious Explore hikers to return.
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September 2nd, 2010
Sheila Simkin
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