Because this particular area of France is not easy to get around by public transportation, we arrived in Le Puy a day before the start of Way of St. James to explore. The early Pilgrims began in Le Puy en Velay, the traditional starting point, on their way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. There are four major routes to Santiago de Compostella but the the first recorded pilgrimage started in Le Puy.

Bishop Gottschalk of Le Puy was the one who made the first recorded pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in 951 AD where the remains of St. James (beheaded in the Holy Land) rest. When he returned, he built a chapel on one of the amazing volcanic peaks in town. To this day, people setting off on this 1,500-1,600 km (approximately 932+ miles) pilgrimage, visit the cathedral Notre-Dame to be blessed before they set out. The pilgrims gave the Le Puy an income (still are) and is also famous for its green lentils.

Way of St. James route map, France
Up early, roll and coffee for breakfast and dragged the suitcases another four block to the Hotel Bristol, the hotel included in the walk for one night. From today on, the bags will be transported by Sherpa from hotel-to-hotel along the “Way of St. James”….”Route St. Jacques de Compostela”….or “GR 65″…I’ll just refer to it as the walk from now on. The Hotel Bristol was loaded with walkers. A Belgium group of 20, setting off today, as well as many others, all heading in the same direction. Le Puy is also the start of the Robert Louis Stevenson (the same Robert Louis Stevenson of Treasure Island fame), another long distance walk in France.

Immediately left the bags with Reception and headed out to tour Le Puy, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Le Puy is a big town of 20,000. This region is in the part of France known as the Auvergne, in the Massif Central. The region was shaped by volcanic activity and has some unreal volcanic peaks, The most spectacular sight in Le Puy was the Chapelle St. Michel d’Aiguilhe (the needle) built and consecrated in 962 when the Bishop returned from his Spain pilgrimage. This Chapelle was perched on a 240 foot high volcanic plug (the vent of a volcano laid bare by erosion). Once you made your way to the base of this plug, it was still a steep climb to the Chapel itself.

Chapel of St. Michael perched on its volcanic plug in Le Puy en Velay, France 

Chapel of St. Michael…very impressive…oui? Le Puy en Velay, France
A great Tourist Office in Le Puy (one of three) where two other Americans (women) were gathering information for their walk, the Robert Louis Stevenson. From the West Coast of America, they were only planning on doing three days of walking and needed a hotel or B&B for one night in Le Puy. The tourisme set right to work, found them a room (they will always try and help you with accommodations), and we wished each other well on our separate voyages.

The other main sights in town were:

The Romanesque Cathedral Notre-Dame (restored) surrounded by little twisting streets… (Le Puy en Velay was yet another town that posted information signs throughout)….

taking the approach to Notre-Dame in Le Puy en Velay, France 

street leading to Cathedral Notre-Dame in Le Puy en Velay, France
Another steep climb up the old cobblestone street with 134 steps to the main door of Notre-Dame. We started touring early but it wasn’t long before busloads of tourists joined us, visiting the St. John door, “Portes de Cedre,”…12th century cedar doors…View image..

12th century Portes de Cedre doors, Le Puy en Velay, France 

stonework over the Portes de Cedre, Le Puy en Velay, France 

Le Puy en Velay tourists leaving the church, France
…the fever stone, 17th century Black Virgin on the Altar, frescoes, cloisters and chapels…

Out of Notre-Dame to the Place du Martouret (also known as the square of the martyrs) because this site was reserved for public executions. The guillotine stood here during the French Revolution and 41 executions took place.

The first stage of Chemin de Saint-Jacques (Way of St. James/Santiago de Compostela/via podienses) starts in the Place du Plot and follows the GR 65 for most of the way. Note – A pillory was set up on the square in 1548 for drunkards so passerbys could laugh at them….

Down the Rue Pannessac with many houses dating from the 15th to 18th centuries…

on the Rue Pannessac in Le Puy en Velay, France
…bobbin-lace (“tatters”), men and women, sitting outside their shops tatting away…I found it awesome watching them flip bobbins and thread in intricate designs without even looking to see what they’re doing. Especially, since I am one of those persons who manages to trip if I even try to walk without looking where I’m going. Lace making is a big tourist industry in Le Puy en Velay.

tatter working outside his shop in Le Puy en Velay, France
ex-Marine and I were also on our own pilgrimage, hunting for two scallop shells, the traditional symbol of a pilgrim. Pilgrims used to wear the scallop shells tied to them or around their necks to be identified as pilgrims on the trail. They also used the scallop as a cup for drinking water at springs and scooping up food from the communal pot at hostelleries. The shells also helped them get charity and hospitality along the way. Not us…we were paying for everything! Most Pilgrims still adopt the shell icon as we did, an important symbol showing we, too, were pilgrims.
Unbelievably low fares on Air France right here.