Forget that Urfa dates back at least 3500 years to Hittite times. Sat on the crossroads of routes through Europe, Asia and Africa. Egyptians, Alexander the Great, Greeks, Romans and Seljuk Turks marched through and left their mark. Forget that modern day Urfa has a population of around 1,523,000 people; and
Forget that Urfa is known as the Prophets’ City because of legends that Abraham was born in a cave here. (The Bible also says that he stayed at Harran, 50 km/31 miles south of Urfa and on the agenda for tomorrow.) The cave, and other legendary locations, are visited annually by hundreds of thousands of Muslim pilgrims. Other Old Testament prophets lived in Urfa, known in ancient times as Edessa; Jethro, Job, Elijah and even Moses lived in the region for seven years working as a shepherd before returning to Egypt.
Let’s think of Urfa 2010 as the City of Purple Scarfs… Visit in 2011 and who knows, it may be the City of Orange Scarfs.

Walking towards the other end of the pool were sellers selling the delightfully tacky, purple, gauzy scarfs piled in stacks that we’d seen on people in the cotton fields. I wanted one! Braked to a stop along with others in the group while Steve told me I looked hideous wearing it. Sticks and stones, I still wanted one. These sellers bargain and the original asking price of 10 Turkish Lira came down to 5 Turkish Lira (approximately $3.00 U.S.). For that kind of money, I too could participate in this year’s Kurdish fashion. This kind of a purchase drives husband, Steve berserk. Flinging, unwrapping, browsing through the stacks of purple to select the gaudiest, most sequin laden scarf I could find, took 10 minutes. More time while the seller wrapped one on my head (Steve continuing to curse under his breath). Happy at last, I was ready to continue, albeit, with a lingering glance at the sparkly dresses hanging there…View image…
Still heading towards the Dergah complex of mosques through a park, this entire area was not only a sea of people but the majority were wearing filmy purple scarves, even on the men. See? They don’t worry about being called “sissy boys” but just go with the flow.


Sitting on the grass, walking along…View image, purple, purple, everywhere.

A person could spend an entire day sitting in this area between the main pilgrimage spots in Urfa. Watching boys rush by with glasses for tea on trays…View image, people sitting by the sacred pool, fountain…View image, women dressed all in black…View image; the tea gardens had the cutest little girl wearing pink, pom-pom antenna…


Another town where less than one day is not enough!



February 3rd, 2012
Sheila Simkin
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