What to See in The Nubra Valley? Panamik Hot Springs and Yarab-tso Holy Lake

Panamik Hot Springs is located only a few kilometers from Siachan Glacier at an altitude of 3,183 meters/10,442 feet. Tourists are not allowed to go beyond Panamik in one direction because of the restricted military base camp at Siachan Glacier. This hot water spring has two areas for tourists to soak body parts in sulphur water; Panamik [...]

What to See in The Isolated Nubra Valley of Ladakh?

There are four standard attractions in the Nubra Valley for tourists: double-hump Bactrian camels; Diskit Buddhist Monastery; Panamik Hot Springs and Yarabtso Holy Lake. Driving out of Sumur in the Nubra Valley and on our way to Panamik Hot Springs, I saw locals crossing the road carrying books on their backs. These were not just [...]

Review of Namgyal Guesthouse in Sumur, Ladakh

Even though we explored the Nubra Valley on our first trip to Ladakh in 2005, there’s always something new to see and do. The Nubra Valley is lower and warmer then Leh with an average altitude of 3,048 meters/10,000 feet (Sumur altitude, 3,160 meters/10,368 feet). Although Ladakh is a high-altitude desert, a lower altitude coupled with [...]

Over The Always Terrifying Khardongla Pass Into the Nubra Valley, Ladakh

Guide Nubu, driver Pujara and cook Dendi returned to Tsermang Eco-Camp after breakfast. The four of them would accompany us for the next 10 days into the Nubra Valley. There is only one way into the Nubra Valley; the “road” up and over the terrifying Khardongla Pass. Khardongla/Khardong la Pass is just one of Ladakh’s many [...]

Review of Luxurious Tsermang Eco-Camp, Ladakh

Tsermang Eco Camp is located 10 minutes, 7 kilometers/4.2 miles from Leh city and 4 kilometers/2+ miles from the airport. Our driver pulled up to Palam Bridge which was almost completed covered in prayer flags, hoisted the duffel and began walking. Bewildered, we followed across, and down a shady path which led to the entrance of [...]


What to See in The Nubra Valley? Panamik Hot Springs and Yarab-tso Holy Lake

May 22nd, 2013 Sheila Simkin

Panamik Hot Springs is located only a few kilometers from Siachan Glacier at an altitude of 3,183 meters/10,442 feet. Tourists are not allowed to go beyond Panamik in one direction because of the restricted military base camp at Siachan Glacier. This hot water spring has two areas for tourists to soak body parts in sulphur water; Panamik #1 and Panamik #2, both accessed by a stairs and paths. Steam hovers in the air along with a distinct sulphur smell.

Steve and I walked up to see Panamik #1; underwhelmed. Followed a narrow hiking channel around the mountain to Panamik #2; slightly more interesting.  We stuck hands in water, admired and left. Travelers are not supposed to “compare” but once a person has immersed themselves in a really hot spring, everything else pales in comparison. Reshuigou Hot Springs in Hailuogou National Park, China had water temperatures up to 91 degrees centigrade/195 degrees fahrenheit from geothermal action! That is what I call a hot spring… Read more »

What to See in The Isolated Nubra Valley of Ladakh?

May 21st, 2013 Sheila Simkin

There are four standard attractions in the Nubra Valley for tourists: double-hump Bactrian camels; Diskit Buddhist Monastery; Panamik Hot Springs and Yarabtso Holy Lake.

Driving out of Sumur in the Nubra Valley and on our way to Panamik Hot Springs, I saw locals crossing the road carrying books on their backs. These were not just any books but holy Buddhist “sutras” (texts) usually only seen in Monasteries. I “think” there are 108 sutras; the same number as beads in a string of Buddhist prayer beads (rosaries); not that they were carrying 108 books. Read more »

Review of Namgyal Guesthouse in Sumur, Ladakh

May 20th, 2013 Sheila Simkin

Even though we explored the Nubra Valley on our first trip to Ladakh in 2005, there’s always something new to see and do. The Nubra Valley is lower and warmer then Leh with an average altitude of 3,048 meters/10,000 feet (Sumur altitude, 3,160 meters/10,368 feet). Although Ladakh is a high-altitude desert, a lower altitude coupled with plentiful rivers help villagers grow crops of wheat, barley, and mustard; fruit trees can also be found. The Shyok, Nubra (Siachan) Rivers all run through the valley, fed by glaciers.

The Siachan Glacier lies to the North while the Karakoram Pass in the Northwest connects Nubra with Xinjiang, China. Nubra was one of the last staging areas on the famous trade route with Central Asia.

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Over The Always Terrifying Khardongla Pass Into the Nubra Valley, Ladakh

May 19th, 2013 Sheila Simkin

Guide Nubu, driver Pujara and cook Dendi returned to Tsermang Eco-Camp after breakfast. The four of them would accompany us for the next 10 days into the Nubra Valley. There is only one way into the Nubra Valley; the “road” up and over the terrifying Khardongla Pass. Khardongla/Khardong la Pass is just one of Ladakh’s many passes and happens to be the highest, motorable pass in the world – 5,602 meters…18,380 feet!

There are no guard rails. Trucks, motorcycles, cars and military convoys laboriously drive in both directions, squeezing past each other with millimeters to spare. Think, frequent landslides, rockfalls and snow. One more fact in case none of the previous frightens you; 400 people were rescued by military helicopters in June, 2012 when a heavy snowfall caused landslides. Read more »

Review of Luxurious Tsermang Eco-Camp, Ladakh

May 18th, 2013 Sheila Simkin

Tsermang Eco Camp is located 10 minutes, 7 kilometers/4.2 miles from Leh city and 4 kilometers/2+ miles from the airport. Our driver pulled up to Palam Bridge which was almost completed covered in prayer flags, hoisted the duffel and began walking. Bewildered, we followed across, and down a shady path which led to the entrance of a stunning tented camp! When Lobsang said, “tented camp,” we thought the obvious; a typical camp with tents, cots, and communal toilets, none of which was Tsermang.

This brand new, luxury tented camp on the banks of the Indus River had recently opened and we were the only guests. Located on the banks of the Indus River, gorgeous Tsermang Eco Camp reminded me of tented camps in Africa with large attached bathroom, outside sitting area, amenities, and comfortable beds.

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Information about the Challenging Stok Kangri Trek in Ladakh

May 17th, 2013 Sheila Simkin

With the Hunder Trek eliminated as being too difficult for us, Lobsang changed the itinerary for the next 10 days to include: going over mountain pass to Pangong Lake, visiting remote areas along the Shyok River and continue into the Nubra Valley, all permit-only areas. Since whatever Lobsang arranges is fine with us, we once again repacked, left dirty clothes behind at Deskit Villa and prepared to leave for Shyok, or so we thought.

Here’s Lobsang again… He, and new guide Nubu, appeared at breakfast with another change; a big rockfall over the Chang-la pass made accessing Shyok from that direction a no-go. Instead, Nubu would take us to Stok for an easy hike, driver would wait, and then we’d spend one night at Tsermang Eco-Camp. Fine. We’re flexible, as you must be in Ladakh. Travel arrangements in Ladakh rarely run smoothly; there are landslides, rockfalls, festival dates change if monks think the date is not auspicious, deep snow blocks a pass, blah, blah, blah. Read more »

Day Five Chilling Trek: From Rumbak to Leh, Ladakh

May 16th, 2013 Sheila Simkin

The authentic Chilling Trek can begin in either direction: Chilling to Spitok or Spitok to Chilling. Jingchan/Zinchen was the last village in the direction Steve and I were heading, and according to guide Riga, guesthouses there are filled with bed bugs! It was bad enough that Steve got bitten by bed bugs in Yurutse and we decided to omit Jingchan. This was not a problem. Riga called Lobsang, Skywalker Tours, who would then send a car to meet us in Jingchan.

TIP: A jeep road begins in Jingchan which then becomes 25 kilometers/15 miles of tarmac. Either begin or end the Chilling Trek in Jingchan/Zingchen, not Spitok. There was no way this side of hell that we were going to walk on a road for 15 miles in full sun! It would also be unbelievably b-o-r-i-n-g! Read more »

Day Four Chilling Trek: From Yurutse to Rumbak in Ladakh

May 15th, 2013 Sheila Simkin

Omelets on Tibetan bread for breakfast along with the Aussies, and Danes who would tackle the pass today while we headed in the opposite direction towards Rumbak.

Scientists from the National Geographic Society and other researchers once wore a path to Rumbak (part of Hemis National Park) each winter, tracking the elusive Snow Leopards. At one time, Rumbak locals kept herds of animals which made it a Snow Leopard happy hunting ground, but they discovered tourism, sold off their herds and turned homes into home stays – more lucrative and easier. End result was the Snow Leopards moved to a different area in Hemis National Park. Camera traps are still set throughout the Snow Leopard habitat, always above 13,000 feet. Rumbak’s altitude is 4,050 meters/13,267 feet and this elusive cat can occasionally be spotted here in the winter.

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Day Three Continued: Yurutse Home Stay had Bedbugs

May 14th, 2013 Sheila Simkin

It isn’t as if there’s a choice of accommodation in Yurutse since only one family lives there with three rooms available; each room holds four people and we chose a room on the second floor because that’s where a two-slit toilet was located. To repeat, home stay guests must share rooms when it is crowded! Luckily, there was enough space for all trekkers tonight and we had our own room. Home stay rates in Ladakh range from: 500-800 Rupees per person ($9-15 US) with breakfast, a packed lunch and dinner included.

We threw down belongings and pulled out packed lunches, absolutely starving; a delicious vegetable samosa, hard boiled egg, boiled potato and candy bar. Bees constructed hives in the wooden ceiling and flew in and out of the room while we tried to shoo them out. Steve was finally stung by a bee and then discovered bed bug bites on his back the next morning! Bed bugs don’t spread disease; they are just considered an annoyance.

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Day Three Chilling Trek: Up and Over the Ganda la/Kanda la Pass in Ladakh

May 13th, 2013 Sheila Simkin

Today would be, without question, the hardest day of the trek; up and over the Gandala/Kandala Pass. Plodding feet would need to ascend from 4,100 meters/13,451 feet to 4,900 meters/16,096 feet! An 800 meter/2,645 foot altitude gain may not seem like much to you (and it isn’t at lower altitudes) but give it a try in Ladakh’s rarified air and you are talking an entirely different ballgame!

After mulling over what could be done to make the ascent “easier,” we asked guide Riga to rent a horse; the horse could carry backpacks and be available for riding in case one of us had a problem. Read more »

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