The Arab-Style Architecture of Mardin, Turkey

The yellow limestone quarries in the region account for the warm honey-colored shade of the buildings. Mardin, means “fortress” and is known for both its Arab-style architecture and strategic location on a rocky mountain 1,300m/4,300′ above sea level. Crowned by a possibly 16th century citadel, there are great views over the Mesopotamian plains into Syria. [...]

Shopping Diversions on Mardin’s Main Street, Turkey

You’d think over two hours in the Bazaar would be enough but it wasn’t. The main street in Mardin is called Cumhuriyet Caddesi. Filled with one-way traffic, this is where you will find the majority of sights. If not exactly on this street, it would be on one of the upper streets that run parallel [...]

The Captivating Town of Mardin, Turkey

Mardin was the first place that we recognized Arabic being spoken and men were ecstatic when we threw in a few of our 6-8 Arabic words along with the three Turkish. While looking into a jewelry shop window, a woman walked by and smiled. I smiled back and said, “Merhaba.” Excited beyond belief, she patted [...]

The Enchanting, Cluttered, Old Bazaar in Mardin

ex-Marine and Travels With Sheila began exploring Old Mardin in, where else, but the Bazaar. Picking a street at random that led off Cumhuryyet (the main street in Mardin), we came to a dead stop. A farrier was shoeing a horse. I don’t know about you, but we are born and bred Chicagoans. The only [...]

Food and Restaurants in Mardin, Turkey

Travels With Sheila never tires of food. Whether admiring piles of purple eggplants (aubergines), watermelons…View image, vegetables…View image, sacks of nuts and seeds…View image. And, of course, eating…yum, yum, yum. I cannot pass a bakery without browsing the windows or entering in for a closer look. One small shop sold only Baklava and honey balls. [...]


The Arab-Style Architecture of Mardin, Turkey

January 27th, 2012 Sheila Simkin

The yellow limestone quarries in the region account for the warm honey-colored shade of the buildings. Mardin, means “fortress” and is known for both its Arab-style architecture and strategic location on a rocky mountain 1,300m/4,300′ above sea level. Crowned by a possibly 16th century citadel, there are great views over the Mesopotamian plains into Syria. The citadel is considered a military zone and not open to the public.

Mardin was an important center for both its strategic location and commercial richness. Walking around you’ll see ribbed domes of Persian origin. Mosques, medresas, the Virgin Mary Church from 1860…View image, monasteries, Mardin Museum from 1895…View image…(could not find Forty Martyrs Church), caravanserais, hamams, in good shape or mere shells of their former glory. Never mind what they were actually used for. Just enjoy looking at the detail around windows…View image, roofs, walk the narrow alleyways…View image, look into courtyards from all periods of history unless you are an architectural buff. Even when a building has a sign, it wass still confusing. Would you believe there wasn’t one bit of information in English as to what Sahkulubey Konagi is on the web…View image?

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Shopping Diversions on Mardin’s Main Street, Turkey

January 26th, 2012 Sheila Simkin

You’d think over two hours in the Bazaar would be enough but it wasn’t. The main street in Mardin is called Cumhuriyet Caddesi. Filled with one-way traffic, this is where you will find the majority of sights. If not exactly on this street, it would be on one of the upper streets that run parallel to Cumhuriyet Caddesi. Mosques, minaret of Sehidiye Camii with three bulbs superimposed at the top, the old post office that was once a caravanserai, Sultan Isa Medresesi, Forty Martyrs Church, Virgin Mary Church (locked when we tried to visit) and the Mardin Museum. People crowding every inch of sidewalk.

There is a lovely cafe on the opposite side of the post office with great views of the Mesopotamian plains. Filmmakers had just arrived from Istanbul and were busy setting up for a documentary while we were there. There was so much to see and do on this street alone that there just wasn’t enough time to work our way through the rest of Mardin or seriously shop.

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The Captivating Town of Mardin, Turkey

January 25th, 2012 Sheila Simkin

Mardin was the first place that we recognized Arabic being spoken and men were ecstatic when we threw in a few of our 6-8 Arabic words along with the three Turkish. While looking into a jewelry shop window, a woman walked by and smiled. I smiled back and said, “Merhaba.” Excited beyond belief, she patted me on the shoulder and began speaking Turkish to me. This is a problem throughout the world. If you speak a few words of their native language, the person assumes you are fluent! Gestured that was all I knew, and she walked away still thrilled and smiling with her friends. Just a few words in a country’s language – “hello”, “thank you”…along with a smile – goes a long way. Make an attempt.

Walking down Cumhuriyet Caddesi, I stopped and looked up at a sign that said, “Sihhi 1205 Emir Hamami”…View image. Hmm… A hamam from 1205? The man standing outside motioned us to follow him between two buildings and up a flight of stairs where he unlocked a gate. From the roof of this hamam could be seen beautiful views of the Mesopotamian plains, minarets, and domes of the hamam. While admiring the panorama, a vicious dog began barking and snarling; a German Shepherd defending the roof. The three of us quickly backed out, shut the gate, and headed back downstairs into the historic hamam.

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The Enchanting, Cluttered, Old Bazaar in Mardin

January 24th, 2012 Sheila Simkin

ex-Marine and Travels With Sheila began exploring Old Mardin in, where else, but the Bazaar. Picking a street at random that led off Cumhuryyet (the main street in Mardin), we came to a dead stop. A farrier was shoeing a horse. I don’t know about you, but we are born and bred Chicagoans. The only horses we’ve ever seen being shod would have been in a television series or movie. The locals probably thought we were “tetched in the head” as we stood there, mesmerized by not only the shoeing, but the horse. He was either stressed out, or aroused by the goings-on, with his prominent, fifth leg…View image.

A line of men sat, schmoozing and interested in us. One man asked if we were from Armenia (not the first or last time we were mistaken for Armenians in the Bazaar), and responded with big smiles when we replied, “America.” Even bigger smiles for our two words of Turkish, and six words of Arabic, since the majority of Mardin’s people speak Turkish, Kurdish and Arabic.

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Food and Restaurants in Mardin, Turkey

January 23rd, 2012 Sheila Simkin

Travels With Sheila never tires of food. Whether admiring piles of purple eggplants (aubergines), watermelons…View image, vegetables…View image, sacks of nuts and seeds…View image. And, of course, eating…yum, yum, yum.

I cannot pass a bakery without browsing the windows or entering in for a closer look. One small shop sold only Baklava and honey balls. When the young man inside saw me looking in his window, he invited us in, showed photos of his grandfather, and insisted we sample honey balls made by him. V-e-r-y sweet. Fortunately, my vocabulary does not include the words, “too sweet,” and I could have easily snarfed down the entire tray.

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Mardin, A Major Highlight in Eastern Turkey

January 22nd, 2012 Sheila Simkin

The Explore group would spend two nights in Mardin but only one full day. Not even close to being enough time in this unique town with its melting pot of cultures, architectural treasures and great bazaar. The Saffron Monastery was on the agenda for a morning visit; an important Syrian monastery from the 5th century; that still holds a daily service in Aramaic, the language of Jesus. Despite this monastery’s importance, Steve and I felt we needed a day to wander around Mardin on our own, letting feet take us wherever they will. And, if there is ever a choice between a “sight” or bazaar, you only need one guess which Travels With Sheila would choose.

If you have time to visit the Saffron Monastery, here is a bit of information about it. The Saffron Monastery is located 5 km/3.1 miles from Mardin and takes its name from saffron flowers. Used today as a temple and school by the Syriacs, the monastery has been here since 495 A.D. Look for some of the existing floor mosaics that are 1500 years old. According to everyone else in the group who visited, the Saffron Monastery has quite a business going for themselves.

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What to See in The Ancient Town of Hasankeyf

January 21st, 2012 Sheila Simkin

Back in the blessedly, air-conditioned bus for a short ride to the new bridge of Hasankeyf, where the group got out to walk across the Tigris River. Caves stretched along one side of the Tigris while views of ancient Hasankeyf sprawled on the other side…View image.

The now ruined bridge was built in 1116, and was once regarded as the grandest in the region. Supports for the bridge was built of wood in case the bridge had to be removed when under attack. All that now remains are the piles and some foundation work…View image. Still…a stunning sight! Read more »

What to See Outside The Ancient Town of Hasankeyf

January 20th, 2012 Sheila Simkin

The ancient town of Hasankeyf (Hasan-cay) is located along the Tigris River, flowing through Turkey, into Syria and Iraq. Once an important connection of the Silk Road, Hasankeyf is threatened by construction of the Ilisu Dam. Many archaeological sites, villages and caves will be drowned by the rising waters of the Tigris River as well as numerous villages along this path within the next 50 years. Only two sites have ever been explored at Hasankeyf. Thousands of years worth of important archaeological treasures still remain under Hasankeyf! Excavations at nearby villages have revealed items dating as far back as 10,000 B.C. Would somebody please hand me a trowel and let me at it? To date, 26 of the 29 planned dams for hydroelectric power have been completed in Turkey.

A stop outside of Hasankeyf down by the Tigris River. Out of the bus and into the over 93 degree Fahrenheit heat for long distance views and information…View image. Zeynel Bey Mausoleum, in the process of being restored (perplexing, since the entire structure will be underwater when the dam is built), is the main sight at this spot. An Islamic/Turkic tomb built for Bey who was the son of Uzun Hassan, ruler of the Akkoyunlu Dynasty in the 15th century. Hasankeyf was part of his domain. The views of Hasankeyf itself were slightly marred by smoke created by farmers burning their fields.

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Unknown Areas of Ethiopia

January 19th, 2012 Sheila Simkin

Steve and I visited Ethiopia three years ago, traveling from North to South and thought, “Been there, done it.” How shortsighted! There’s always something new to discover wherever a person travels.

We just returned from “Unknown and Rarely Visited” areas of Ethiopia (perhaps 200+ Westerners a year come) that included: the ancient, walled city of Harar; different tribes, one of whom is the beyond amazing Surma people; and even walked across the Sudan border for a friendly chat with Border Guards!

Anything and everything you need to know about exploring “Unknown Ethiopia” is in Sheila’s Guide to Unknown Ethiopia, available at Amazon.com through the link on this page (Sheila’s Guides to Budget Travel); downloadable on Kindle, iPad, iPhone and other devices.

This  rugged exploration had bad roads, camping, daily changes in plans depending on safety  - in other words, a trip for the brave and adventurous traveler. It is said that a picture is worth a thousand words…

 

Minte Tribe hair style, Ethiopia

Injera for dinner in Ethiopia

offering at Saint Gabriel Festival, Ethiopia

Surma woman with lip plate, Ethiopia

 

Malabadi Bridge and The Real “Batman”

January 19th, 2012 Sheila Simkin

Built between 1146-1147 by Timurtas of Mardin, the Malabadi Bridge is by the town of Silvan, and once the only bridge across the Batman River…View image. This bridge once had the highest arch in Turkey, rising from ground level to meet the central span over the deepest part of the river, with two toll booths. Restored several times, there is a new road bridge directly upstream…View image. Malabadi Bridge was restored several times during its long history.

A half hour stop to eat picnic lunches out of the heat (in what little shade there was) while admiring the bridge. How hot was it? It was so hot, cheese melted and could have been used in a fondue. An 8-year old boy stood there, along with his father, who knew the statistics and history of Malabadi Bridge. All he needed was a little encouragement to recite the information as fast as he could, followed by a song! So serious, cute, funny and willing to repeat the facts non-stop. (Watch the video below:))

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